Vibrant and bold, or a delicate wash of color, enamel has been embellishing jewelry since the ancient Mycenaean’s starting around 1400 BCE. Artisans in both the Greek and Byzantine Empire were also skilled in the art of enameling. It’s a technique that has remained an integral part of jewelry design, often used to add color to a piece instead of, or in addition to, gemstones. In the Art Deco era, black enamel was used often as a contrast to white diamonds, or coral, or other gemstones adding a sense of drama and sophistication to a piece of jewelry. It can also be used to create a colorful pattern on a jewel by juxtaposing multiple colors of enamel in one piece to create a unique design.
There are several types of enamel, each with its own attributes that contribute to the artistry of a jewel. Although there are different nuances to each enameling technique, the basic process is the same. Powdered glass is bonded to a metal backing by using a very high heat that melts the powder. The heat can be applied in a couple of different ways, either by using a hand-held torch, or by placing the jewel into a furnace and “firing” it, a process that could require multiple repetitions to complete the enameling. To help you understand the various types of enamel, The Jewelers Circle has put together a guide to three of the most frequently found styles of enameling in vintage jewelry.
Champlevé Enamel
A commonly used enameling technique, Champlevé is a French word meaning “raised fields”. It is made by carving, etching or casting hollowed out spaces that form a design. The scooped out spaces are filled with powdered enamel until it is flush with the raised metal edges. After the enamel has been applied, it is baked and then polished. When the process is completed, the metal remains part of the design, adding an element of texture that contrasts with the smoothness of the enamel. It is believed that the Celtics originated the use of Champlevé enamel around 400 BCE. The technique became particularly popular during the 1100s, when many enameling workshops were active in Limoges, France, an important center of enameling until the trade was wiped out by invaders during the 100 Years War.
Guilloché Enamel
Guilloché is a sophisticated technique that combines engraving and enameling in one piece. This style of enameling was developed during the mid-1700s when silversmiths used ornamental lathes that were mechanized to create repetitive and intricate patterns in metal, including lines, ripples, waves and sunrays, all of which were popular motifs. Precision engraving got a lot easier and faster with the invention of the rose engine lathe, which happened in the late 17th or early 18th century. To create guilloché a metal surface that was engraved with a pattern was then coated with enamel, heated and polished to a very shiny, glassy finish that lets the engraved pattern show through the enamel. Famed jeweler Fabergé used guilloché extensively for his iconic jeweled eggs and other decorative objets.
Plique-à-jour Enamel
Plique-à-jour is a highly specialized type of enameling that creates an effect similar to a stained glass window. In French plique-à-jour means “letting in daylight”. It is a style of enameling that was used extensively in Art Nouveau jewelry, as the lightness of the enamel was perfect for creating delicate dragonfly or butterfly wings, as well as naturalistic flora and fauna. Plique-à-jour is a time-consuming process that requires patience and a high level of skill. It is made by creating spaces for the enamel in a foil metal backing, then the enamel is applied as multiple thin layers. When completed, the backing is gently removed by hand, or in some cases an acid solution is used to remove it. The translucence that occurs when there is no backing on the enamel is what makes plique-à-jour so special and it is also why it is so delicate compared to other enamel styles.
Enamel is an ancient technique used in jewelry-making to add color and texture to a design. Different styles of enameling create different effects on a finished jewel, from bold swaths of color to lighter, pastel hues, enamel adds its own special touch to jewelry.
Top: Edwardian diamond, 14-karat gold and enamel violet brooch, signed Brokaw & Son, D.D., circa 1910.
Victorian three-stone diamond, 18-karat gold and enamel ring, circa 1890; Victorian diamond, 18-karat gold, silver and guilloche enamel heart pendant, circa 1880; Art Nouveau opal, 18-karat gold and plique-a-jour enamel pendant, signed Rene Lalique, France, circa 1898-1900.
Authored by Amber Michelle