Wrist Party: Bangles, Bracelets and Cuffs

Art Deco Tiffany & Co. diamond, sapphire and platinum bracelet; French diamond and platinum bracelet; Art Deco diamond, ruby and platinum bracelet, circa 1930; Bombe diamond and platinum bracelet, circa 1950s.

 

There’s something really lovely about a bracelet adorning one’s wrist. A stack of bangles worn on a bare arm in the summer is a nod to boho chic, while a statement bracelet glittering with diamonds worn over a black glove conjures up old Hollywood glamour. Bracelets have been adorning people for thousands of years not only as decoration, but as protection from evil spirits and injury during battle. In some cultures bracelets even indicate marital status.

Victorian Old European and rose cut diamonds, approximately 3-carats total weight, and rose gold bangle, France, circa 1880

There are many types of bracelets to fit your style. There is the bangle, which is a rigid hoop that slides over your hand to rest on the wrist. Bangles can be narrow or wide, but the main characteristic is that it is an inflexible hoop. Some bangles are hinged to make it easier to take them on and off, in this style there are two halves that are connected by a hinge and they clasp together to form a full circle. There are link bracelets made from all kinds of chain styles from paperclip to mariner. Link bracelets can be worn as a simple chain or decorated with charms. Then there are cuff bracelets, which can have two meanings. The first reference is a wide bangle, the second refers to a style that goes about three-quarters of the way around the wrist and has an opening so that the piece slides onto the wrist. The way a bracelet fits your wrist is important, when you’re wearing a bracelet you don’t want it to fall too far down the wrist or go too far up the arm towards the elbow.

Power Cuffs

Vintage Tiffany & Co. 18-karat gold textured link bracelet with toggle closure, circa 1980s

The very first bracelets were fabricated from bone, grass, wood, shells, feather and stones and were worn as protection against evil forces. Warriors in ancient Greece and Rome wore oversized leather or metal cuffs on their forearms as a symbol of power and strength as well as for protection in battle when the cuffs served as a form of armor. The Greeks and Assyrians added snake, sphinx, ram or lion head motifs to the cuffs for an extra dose of protection and in Celtic England men wore bracelets with a snake motif to protect themselves from sword attacks.

By the Georgian era in the 1700s it had become very stylish to wear a pair of bracelets. The trend continued into the early years of the Victorian era with a pair of bracelets worn on the arm during the day and over gloves at night. In the Grand Years of Queen Victoria’s reign bracelets were often wide mesh, or wide bangles. There were also chain link bracelets, embellished with gems. Buckles were a popular motif for bracelets. And in the late years of Victoriana, bangles adorned wrists and were often worn in multiples.

The Deco Years

Art Deco 17.75-carat diamond and platinum bracelet

During the Art Deco era, bracelets, especially those dazzling with diamonds and colored gemstones, were on trend and hotter than ever as fashionable Flappers stacked multiple bracelets on their arms, sometimes over gloves. You’ll often find bracelets from the Art Deco years that are quite long, that’s because they had to be long enough to be worn over a glove and also higher up on the arm, since the bracelets were stacked together. By the time the 1940s rolled around, World War II had erupted and the hot new style was the tank bracelet, wide and architectural these pieces were inspired by the patterns left in the mud by tire tracks. Charm bracelets were another favorite bracelet style of that decade. They were link chains with small charms fastened to them that told the story of one’s life. And when it came to collecting charms, the more the merrier. The bracelets were meant to collect charms throughout a lifetime. ID bracelets were another important style with a thin gold plate flanked by a dainty link chain.

Charmed

French 18-karat gold Tank Bracelet, circa 1945

Charm bracelets, popular in the 1940s, were still going strong in the 1950s, possibly becoming even more popular. Some were link bracelets overflowing with charms, while others were a simple bangle with one charm. During the 1950s gold bangles, pearl bracelets and gold mesh bracelets were worn during the day. In the evening, diamond bracelets were worn. Clothing styles changed during the 1950s to accommodate bracelets. Sweaters, dresses and even coats had ¾ length sleeves so that bracelets were easily visible. During the 1950s it was once again chic to wear bracelets over gloves.

Tennis Bracelet

Art Deco diamond line bracelet with 34 old European cut diamonds, approximately 5.5-carats total weight, set in platinum with milligrain detailing and hand engraving, circa 1930.

As lifestyles became more casual in the 1960s and boho influences started to seep into fashion, it became chic to pile multiple mismatched bangles on arms and stacking bangles remains popular today. One of the most popular contemporary bracelet styles is the “Tennis Bracelet”. During a match in 1978 tennis champion Chris Evert dropped her diamond line bracelet and stopped the game until she found her jewel, which led to the diamond line bracelet being renamed the tennis bracelet. By the 1980s diamond tennis bracelets adorned wrists everywhere and the style continues to be a popular basic for a jewelry wardrobe.

Individuality is a key element of fashion today and vintage bracelets will help you show off your personal style. Whether you choose a stack of bangles, a statement cuff or classic links, bracelets will add another layer of  chic to your look.

Top of page, left to right: Art Deco Tiffany & Co. diamond (approximately 7.30-carats), sapphire and platinum bracelet; French diamond and platinum bracelet; Art Deco diamond (approximately 18-carats total weight), ruby (approximately 13-carats total weight) and platinum bracelet, circa 1930; Bombe diamond (approximately 45-carats total weight) and platinum bracelet, circa 1950s.

Victorian Old European and rose cut diamonds, approximately 3-carats total weight, and rose gold bangle, France, circa 1880; Vintage Tiffany & Co. 18-karat gold textured link bracelet with toggle closure, circa 1980s; Art Deco 17.75-carat diamond and platinum bracelet; French 18-karat gold Tank Bracelet, circa 1945; Art Deco diamond line bracelet with 34 old European cut diamonds, approximately 5.5-carats total weight, set in platinum with milligrain detailing and hand engraving, circa 1930.

Authored by Amber Michelle