It’s all in the details — spectacular gemstones, dazzling designs and fabulous fabrication — all factors that go into making a piece of jewelry. It is the sum of those parts that may add up to an exceptional jewel, something that is set apart from the jewelry that we wear every day. Let’s start by saying that these jewels are rare and hard to come by. What are the characteristics that make jewelry exceptional, let’s take a look.
Materials
Exceptional jewelry is always made from the finest, or even unexpected, materials. Certain gemstones may add to the exceptionalism of a piece — diamonds from the legendary Golconda Mines, emeralds from Colombia, rubies from Burma (Myanmmar) and sapphires from Kashmir are among the finest gemstones, or it may be a rare gemstone such as an alexandrite, or a natural pearl. Then of course there is the size of the stone, generally larger stones are more rare than small stones. The quality of the stones is also important, you’re looking for stones that are inclusion free, have the right amount of color saturation – not too dark and not too light. Natural color gemstones, that have no treatments to enhance the color, are also most desired. Platinum is often used in higher end pieces. The strength of the metal holds stones securely and its natural white color does not change the color of the gems. When gold is used it is generally 18-karat.
Craftsmanship
The way a piece of jewelry is made is very important. Look at it carefully. If the piece is prong set, the prongs should be smooth and not catch on your clothes. The finish on the piece should also be checked for quality. Look at the back, is it finished with a grill, or is the inside polished as nicely as the outside? In higher end jewelry part of the finishing process involves polishing parts of the piece that you will never actually see, but will have an impact on how the finished piece looks. Using a process called “thrumming” the inside hidden pieces of a setting are polished. Why does that matter? When the underside of prongs and other areas of the setting are polished it reflects back into the stone making it appear brighter. Thrumming involves a process that uses a long string that is pulled back and forth through the areas that need to be polished until the desired shine is reached. While you may not see the actual areas of a piece of jewelry that have been thrummed, you will see the results of thrumming in the beauty of the finished piece of jewelry.
Design
Innovative designs that have never been seen before or that are no longer produced may make a piece exceptional. Cartier’s tutti frutti jewelry was wildly original when it debuted and the pieces are very collectible today because the Masion doesn’t make that style anymore, with the exception of an occasional piece of high jewelry. Bulgari’s Trombino ring has also reached iconic status. Jewelry design and the manufacturing of a piece often go hand in hand, with the design requiring special production, such as the invisible settings from Van Cleef & Arpels, where all you see are gemstones, but no metal holding them in place.
Maker
Signed jewelry has a certain cachet, with each brand signaling its own story. Some makers including Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, have reached iconic status due to their design innovation and impeccable fabrication. Through the decades these retailers have managed to stay connected to the pulse of popular culture while creating jewelry that speaks to those moments in time. A signature will add value to a piece of jewelry; it’s a promise from the brand of not only quality, but of a look and style that is relevant to the client’s lifestyle. Prior to the 20th century most jewelry was not signed and most jewelers were in the background (there are some exceptions of course), so there may be some exceptional pieces designed prior to the 1900s that have unknown makers.
Provenance
Provenance refers to the background of a piece of jewelry or gemstone — who once owned it or where it came from. For a gemstone, provenance will include country of origin and well as who owned the stone and any jeweler who may have handled or set the stone. If a piece of jewelry was formerly the property of a famous person — celebrity, socialite, business tycoon, or royalty – it will have provenance. In short, provenance is the life story of a gemstone, or piece of jewelry, that chronicles when it was made, who made it and who owned or wore it. Where a stone is from, or who owned a piece of jewelry, may add value to it, perhaps making it more expensive. Sales receipts, original boxes, letters of authenticity, lab reports and other materials help to establish provenance.
It's very unusual to get one piece of jewelry with all of the characteristics that will make it exceptional and that is why these pieces are so rare and hard to find. Many pieces of jewelry will have some combination of the elements that make it exceptional, but not all. Provenance may be unknown, or a piece made in the Georgian or Victorian eras may be unsigned, but due to its other characteristics it may still be considered exceptional. Ultimately, exceptional jewelry may be defined in one word: Rarity.
Top of Page: Important 52.51-carat Colombian emerald Cocktail Ring with 72 diamonds weighing 13.04-carats and 16 brilliants weighing 3.32-carats mounted in 18-karat yellow gold, signed Harry Winston, circa 1970s.
Various sized round diamond, amethyst and Yogo sapphire, set in an alloy of silver and gold. A diamond pavé sphere connects the clip and drop; white diamonds set in 18-karat white gold accent the back of the ear clips, signed JAR, accompanied by original box. Suite is comprised of a necklace, earrings, bracelet and ring set with 78.90-carats of blue cabochon sapphires, accented by 28.15-carats of diamonds mounted in 18-karat gold, each item is signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered, circa 1980s, France, formerly the property of Lady Raine Spencer.
Authored by Amber Michelle