From aerospace engineer to gemstone aficionado, Mohib Burney has turned his passion for gemstones into an expansion of the family’s colored gemstone business Shahzad, which was founded in 1978 by his father. Based in Bangkok, Thailand, an important colored gemstone hub, Burney has spent the past decade plus, celebrating the beauty of these treasures and sharing their stories in major global hubs including China, Hong Kong and the United States.
Family Philosophy
“Our philosophy is ‘Tradition meets Precision.’ We honor the craftsmanship and trust built since 1978, while applying an engineer's discipline to gemstone sourcing and quality control. We are committed to ethical sourcing, exceptional quality, and creating pieces that bridge heritage with contemporary elegance,” comments Burney, chief creative officer, Shahzad.
When selecting gemstones to add to the Shahzad collection, Burney follows a strict three-pillar criteria. First, the gems must be top quality, only stones with superb color, clarity and cut are chosen. Stones from traceable sources of origins, such as Burmese rubies or Colombian emeralds are prioritized. Finally each stone must have its own special character, a unique story and a distinct personality that will inspire the design team.
In addition to trading colored stones, Shahzad also creates jewelry that showcases the beauty of these gems. “A colored gemstone adds soul, emotion and individuality to a design,” says Burney, who notes that the vibrant color spectrum from fiery reds to oceanic blues, offers designers an opportunity to play with contrast and symbolism. In his experience, Burney finds that the “big three” ruby, especially from Burma, emerald, especially from Colombia and sapphire are perennial favorites due to their rarity, historical significance and unmatched durability.
An Overlooked Gemstone
While he appreciates the big three, Burney wishes that people knew more about the often overlooked spinel, a gem he says is one of the most underrated and deserving of more recognition. “Spinel offers the same rich reds and deep blues as rubies and sapphires, but at a far more accessible price. It is naturally clean, requires no heat treatment, and has incredible brilliance. Historically, many famous ‘rubies’ in crown jewels, like the Black Prince's Ruby, were actually spinel.”
When it comes to colored gemstones in vintage jewelry, Burney notes some important differences between older material and a contemporary gem. He finds that vintage jewelry often showcases softer, pastel toned gems such as aquamarine. “The gems often had inclusions and a ‘sleepy’ appearance, as cutting technology was less advanced,” explains Burney. “Contemporary jewelry favors vivid, highly saturated colors with precision-cut facets that maximize brilliance and light return. Today, we also see more unheated and untreated stones being celebrated for their natural authenticity.”
Advice for Buying Colored Gemstones
If you’re in the market for a colored gemstone, Burney offers a few bits of advice. He suggests always requesting a report from a trusted lab, such as Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Gübelin, or American Gemological Laboratory (AGL). Of course, you should always purchase from a reputable dealer who has a long-term business and who is transparent about where gems are sourced. Burney strongly recommends prioritizing color over size, explaining that a smaller stone with extraordinary color is far more valuable than a larger, dull gem. He also urges people to learn about treatments that are applied to various gemstones such as heat, or oil, “a gem with no treatment is always more valuable,” states Burney.
According to Burney, Shahzad is about more than just selling gemstones and jewelry, it’s about curation and storytelling. In addition, the firm is deeply committed to ethical mining practices, full traceability and educating clients so that they feel confident in their gemstone purchase. Every customer is treated with warmth, integrity and the same passion as when Burney’s father started the company almost 50 years ago. “Every gem in our collection has been personally hand-selected by me, combining my engineering eye for precision with my father’s decades of legacy,” concludes Burney.
Top: Mohib Burney
Peridot from Kohistan Supat mines, Pakistan; Jedi Spinel, Burma; Color change sapphire from Madagascar, depending upon the light source, the sapphire will change from blue to lavender or fuchsia.
Authored by Amber Michelle