Electricity is introduced, the Arts & Crafts movement takes hold, Art Nouveau rises, The Suffragette Movement gains ground, Art Workers Guild, Arts & Crafts Exhibition Society, Gibson Girls and actress Sarah Bernhardt all defined the late years of the Victorian era.
Queen Victoria ascended the throne on June 20, 1837 and was, at the time, the United Kingdom’s (UK) longest reigning monarch when she died on January 21, 1901. Queen Victoria ruled for 63 years and 7 months. Her reign was known as the Victorian era (Victoriana) and was subdivided into three periods, Romantic, Grand and Aesthetic, with each period triggered by major events. The Aesthetic Years, which will be covered in this blog, also known as the Late Years, runs from 1885 to 1901, when Queen Victoria passed away. By the late 19th century Britain was the most powerful country in the world, controlling about one quarter of the world in both land and people, according to Victorian-era.org. Due to the continuing Industrial Revolution, Britain was flourishing and social change was happening rapidly.
Handmade Jewelry
The Aesthetic years were focused on art and were a backlash against the era’s growing industrialization and machination leading to an increased demand for handmade jewelry. These years were a convergence of multiple styles in jewelry with something for everyone. One school of thought was that jewelry should be intrinsically beautiful and that the value of the stones and materials were of less importance than the artistry of the finished jewel. Two organizations were formed that paved the way for these new styles — the Art Workers Guild and the Arts & Crafts Exhibition Society. This new way of thinking about jewelry spawned two big artistic movements – Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts. During the 1890s, technology to melt platinum became widely available, making it possible to more easily use the white metal for jewelry fabrication, launching a whole new look of light, lacy diamond or diamond and pearl pieces that set the stage for a new style of jewelry that was elegantly refined.
Electricity Changes Jewelry
One of the most important inventions during the Aesthetic Years was electricity. Electric lights gave off a different type of light than candles and suddenly all of the rich, heavy fabrics in deep colors used in clothes and furniture looked dull and dreary in this new lighting. Lighter colors and fabrics that looked prettier under electric lights became the fashion. Electricity was also very good news for diamonds, which sparkled magnificently under electric lights, making them a popular choice for evening wear. Diamond riviere necklaces (a line of diamonds, sometimes called a tennis necklace today), diamond fringe necklaces, diamond bracelets and diamond tiaras were all favorites for night time. Diamond tiaras were sometimes made to convert to a necklace, while others would come apart to be worn as brooches. It was also very stylish to wear diamond brooches or pins in the hair. In 1886, Tiffany & Co., introduced the diamond solitaire ring, an engagement ring style that showcases one diamond in a six prong setting. The style was very innovative when it was first introduced and it remains popular today.
Victorian Lifestyles
Lifestyles during this time were changing, especially for women, who formed the Primrose League followed by the Women’s Liberal Federation in 1885 and 1886 respectively, to campaign for the right to vote. Women were going to college and playing sports such as tennis and golf, or bicycling. The Gibson Girl, illustrations of women by the American artist Dan Gibson, captured the essence of the “ideal” modern woman who was confident, independent and active, but not championing change in the same way as the women in the suffragette movement who were clamoring for the right to vote.
These more active lifestyles changed jewelry styles. Lighter, smaller pieces became fashionable. Jewelry with sporting themes were popular. The large brooches of earlier years were replaced by smaller pins, worn several at a time, that were scattered across the bodice of a dress, earning them the title of “scatter pins”. Stars and crescent moons were especially popular along with all kinds of bugs. Earrings started out small in this period, but morphed into long drops dripping in diamonds in the 1890s. Bangles were often worn in multiples, while pendants and lockets stayed stylish, but were scaled down in size from earlier years.
When Queen Victoria went into mourning, her eldest son Edward, who was next in line to the throne, took over many of her official duties. When he was 21, Edward married Alexandra of Denmark. Princess Alexandra frequently wore dog-collar style chokers allegedly to hide a scar on her neck. It became a fashionable choice. As the next Queen of England, Alexandra set the fashion preferences for many other stylish women. Since Edward and Alexandra stepped in for Queen Victoria, who continued to mourn the passing of her husband Albert until the end of her life, the couple was influential in setting fashion and jewelry trends.
Leisure Time
A favorite past time of Victorians that lasted through the Late Years was gardening. It was another rejection of machination. Victorians planted elaborate gardens and wealthier people even collected exotic plants. Because of this fascination with gardening the Victorian era was known for its jewelry inspired by creatures who lived in the flora and fauna. Dragonflies, butterflies, bees and flies rendered in precious metals and gems were popular themes in jewelry.
The Industrial Revolution helped to free up time for a rising middle class to spend on leisure activities. Theater was a popular pastime for Victorians. Sarah Bernhardt was the most famous actress of the day and what she wore influenced others. When she portrayed Cleopatra in the play of the same name, she wore turquoise and silver Egyptian style jewelry, which started another rush to Egyptian Revival jewelry. She also favored Art Nouveau, but the style appealed more to artists and the avant garde of the time, the more conventional Victorians thought it was improper. While Art Nouveau was very influential artistically, it was never a mass produced or mainstream style. Queen Victoria died in 1901 and her son Edward, took over the throne ushering in the Edwardian era, a time of formality and elegance.
Top of page: Queen Victoria, Golden Jubilee, 1887, by Alexander Bassano, Public Domain, courtesy WikiCommons.
Turquoise, natural pearl and 18-karat gold bracelet, circa 1885-1889; Diamond and silver topped gold arrow brooch, in original Linzeler Freres box, Paris, circa 1885-1889; Diamond, unheated Burma ruby, silver and 18-karat gold, crescent brooch, French, circa 1885; 18-karat gold and enamel cufflinks, racehorse and jockey motif, circa 1890; Diamond, demantoid garnet, ruby, silver and 18-karat gold frog brooch/pendant, circa 1890.
Authored by Amber Michelle