Soaring gracefully through the sky, perching daintily on a branch or singing merrily in the morning, birds bring joy and a message of freedom into our lives. Revered in the ancient world, birds were thought to be a connection to divinity. The Egyptians used falcons as a symbol of protection and the Romans associated eagles with power. And of course, there’s the mythical phoenix rising from the ashes and heralding a new beginning. The symbolism and beauty of birds has inspired jewelry designers through the ages, who reimagine their graceful form and brilliant plumage in precious metals and dazzling gemstones.
The Meaning of Birds
While birds have held meaning throughout time, the Victorians brought that symbolism front and center. Victorian society had strict etiquette and showing emotions was discouraged, so they created a secret language based on symbolism, such as the language of flowers, where each flower was assigned a meaning. It was the same with birds, each one was given its own significance, symbolizing everything from peace and loyalty to strength and wisdom.
The dove has associations all the way back to Greek and Roman mythology when doves were associated with Aphrodite and Venus, the Greek and Roman Goddesses of love. In the Victorian era, the dove was also a spiritual symbol seen as representing the Holy Spirit and it was also viewed as a symbol of fidelity. Today, the dove continues to be associated with love, peace and new beginnings.
The swallow is another bird connected with romance. Swallows mate for life and are harbingers of loyalty. These birds are known for their ability to fly fast and far, but still return home. Sailors wore a swallow as a marker for a safe journey and return home as well as for good fortune. The swallow was also a common motif in sweetheart jewelry that was given by soldiers to their loved ones when they went off to war so they would not be forgotten.
Owls represent wisdom and personal growth, while hummingbirds symbolize joy and resilience. Eagles are about strength, leadership and power. Swans are another bird that mates for life and are symbolic of grace and fidelity. And of course the peacock with its resplendent feathers is associated with beauty and protection as the eyes on its tail feathers are “watching.”
Bird Jewels in the Headlines
There are also some rather famous bird jewels. The Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, was well-known for wearing her Cartier flamingo brooch. The brooch, which was completed in 1940 was commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife. The flamingo brooch is comprised of diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald and citrine set in 18-karat gold and platinum. Some of the gems used were recycled from jewelry that the Duchess already owned as it was difficult to access gemstones during World War II, when the piece was being made. The brooch is currently in the Cartier collection.
First introduced in 1965, Bird on a Rock was one of designer Jean Schlumberger’s most iconic creations for Tiffany & Co. The debut piece showcased a diamond bird perched on a topaz. It has since been recreated with diamond intensive or colored gemstone birds sitting on various colored gemstone “rocks”. It’s been a perennial favorite since its introduction with current celebrities including Florence Pugh, Selena Gomez, Michael B. Jordan and Usher wearing various renditions of the jewel to important events.
A Bird for You
You’ll find birds in rings, bracelets, pendants and earrings, but it is perhaps brooches that best allow the true beauty of the bird to soar, showcasing the graceful shape of their wings, lush feathers and expressive nature. You can wear larger bird brooches on your shoulder, or at your waist, while a more petite bird will sit prettily on your lapel or on the top of your shirt or jacket cuff. While bird jewels express many sentiments, it is the freedom that a flying bird represents that is perhaps what resonates most.
Top: Diamond, emerald, ruby, sapphire and 18-karat gold bird brooch.
Art Nouveau diamond, enamel and 14-karat gold swallow brooch, circa 1905; Victorian natural pearl and 15-karat gold bird brooch, English, circa 1880; Diamond and 18-karat gold lovebirds brooch, circa 1960s.
Authored by Amber Michelle