Innovative, creative and visionary some of the jewelry houses that launched in the late 1800s and early 20th century continue to enchant today. Fresh designs and exceptional craftsmanship were on full display in jewelry made by Boucheron, Buccellati and Bulgari, powering them into the 21st century where designs from the past are updated for today creating jewels that draw upon the DNA of these historic brands. Let’s take a look at how these jewelry houses got their start and where they are today.
Boucheron
Founded by Frédéric Boucheron, 1858 Paris
Iconic Jewels: The Question Mark Necklace (point d’interrogation), Wladimir the Cat, Engraved Diamonds
Frédéric Boucheron began a jewelry apprenticeship when he was just 14 years old, opening his first store at the Palais-Royal in Paris in 1858. He came from a family of clothiers, so he was very aware of the lightness and fluidity of fabrics and lace, an aesthetic he always brought to his gold work. Boucheron opened his business during the French Second Empire (1852-1870), under the rule of Napoleon III, an era of grand opulence. Napoleon’s wife, Empress Eugenie and much of Europe’s aristocracy were clients.
In 1867, Boucheron earned the gold medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle. In an unprecedented move Boucheron, had the names of the artisans from his workshop engraved on a marble plaque paying tribute to their talents that helped the firm win the coveted prize. In 1878 Boucheron won the Grand Prix (first prize) at the same fair.
Boucheron was willing to take creative risks that paid off for the firm. Sometime around 1880, he revived an ancient engraving technique used for diamonds. Using this skill, the firm engraved diamonds with arabesque patterns and floral motifs. One of Boucheron’s most innovative designs: The Question Mark necklace, created in 1879 is still produced today. The concept was simple, a necklace with an opening and no clasp that could easily slide onto a neck with no assistance necessary, the first time women were able to easily put on their own jewelry.
Boucheron has the distinction of being the first jewelry house to set up shop on Place Vendôme, choosing number 26, a corner location where light flowed freely into the windows causing the diamonds and gems to sparkle and shimmer enticingly. The firm is still housed there today.
Buccellati
Founded by Mario Buccellati, 1919 Milan
Iconic Jewels: Goldsmithing based on ancient techniques that create textures and lightness to the metal.
Mario Buccellati was born in Acona, Italy in 1891, and moved to Milan in the early 1900s with his mother and two brothers after his father passed away. Milan was an epicenter of design and style and Mario landed an apprenticeship with the goldsmithing shop of Beltrami & Besnati. He was enamored with ancient goldsmithing techniques and had a real talent for the craft. In 1919, Mario took over Beltrami & Besnati and opened his first store at Via Santa Margherita, near the famed La Scala Theater. In 1979, Buccellatti had the distinction of being the first Italian jeweler to open on the Place Vendome in Paris.
What really sets Buccellati apart from other jewelers is the metalwork. The firm is known for decorating every visible surface of a piece using ancient engraving and goldsmithing techniques, that create an identifiable style with finishes that have the sheen of silk and the richness of the Renaissance era that so enchanted Mario Buccellati. His goal was to interpret rather than copy the style of the Renaissance. The jewelry designs are inspired by Venetian lace, Etruscan patterns and Italian vegetation, insects and animals. Another signature of the firm is its pierced goldwork with bezel set gems in the openings.
To this day, the Buccellati family still does much of the design work. When the design is complete they work very closely with the artisans who produce the jewelry, which becomes a collaboration between the designer and the craftsperson. Many of the craftspeople who work in the Buccellati shops now are the grandchildren of the artisans who worked with Mario.
In 2020 the company was bought by the Richemont Group, but the Buccellati family remains the heart and soul of the business.
Bulgari
Founded by Sotirio Voulgaris, 1884 Rome
Iconic Jewels: Trombino Ring, Monete, Serpenti, Tubogas
The story of Bulgari begins in Greece in a small village in the Pindus mountains where Sotirio Voulgaris was born in 1857. It was there that Sotirio, working alongside his father, learned the art of silversmithing. In 1880 Sotirio made his way to Naples, Italy then to Rome, where he opened a store in 1884 selling antiques, silver and archeological revival jewelry which was popular with tourists visiting Italy. He was so successful that he had to move to a larger location.
At the turn of the 20th century, Sotirio’s two sons, Giorgio and Constantino, joined the business. The firm continued to grow and by 1905 they had to move once again. By now the Greek Voulgaris had morphed into the Italian Bulgari.
In the 1940s, as World War II raged through Europe, jewelry styles changed due to the challenges of getting materials. Bulgari turned to yellow gold with colored gemstones, both of which were easier to access during the war years. After the war, a distinctive new look was becoming more pronounced at Bulgari. Color became the core of the brand, unexpected combinations of colors were central to the firm’s look. Bulgari also began using more cabochon gems to show off more of the stone’s hue.
Bulgari launched its Monete collection in 1966. The pieces feature ancient coins set in bezels suspended from a chain. The collection has become a cornerstone of the brand and remains popular today.
During the 1980s, Bulgari began producing jewelry meant for everyday wear. In 2011, luxury purveyor LVMH purchased Bulgari for a reported $6 billion. Today, the brand continues its innovative designs that stay true to its DNA of bold color combined with exceptional craftsmanship.
Top of Page: French 18-karat gold brooch, signed Boucheron.
Diamond, sapphire and 18-karat gold dress clips, circa 1940s, signed Boucheron; Diamond and 18-karat gold cuff, with rigatto engraving technique, signed M Buccellati for Mario Buccellati, circa 1950s; Unheated blue sapphire weighing 7.49-carats, diamond and platinum Trombino ring, circa 1970s, signed Bulgari.
Authored by Amber Michelle