Lifestyles of the Rich and Royal, Opulence, Refined Luxury, Electricity, White, Platinum, Pearls and Diamonds all defined the Edwardian era.
The Edwardian Era, The Belle Epoque and The Gilded Age
The Edwardian era officially began during the reign of King Edward VII in 1901 (although he was coronated in 1902) and ended with the start of World War I in 1914/1915, historians vary as to the exact dates. Edward was the eldest son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. He began to take on many official duties after Prince Albert died and as a result the Edwardian style began to develop in the late 1800s and blossomed during his reign. In other parts of Europe this same time period was known as the Belle Epoque and in the United States as the Gilded Age, however, the jewelry had the same aesthetic.
A Formal King
Known for his love of luxury and parties, King Edward held many galas and celebrations during his time on the throne and dressing up was mandatory. Dressing up, was done not just to look awesome, but to show your rank in society and your respect for the rank of those around you.
Formality was a trademark of the Edwardian era as was flaunting one’s wealth, so wearing lots of jewelry was very fashionable. Women of the Edwardian era were experts at layering and stacking jewelry. They started with a choker or dog collar and then added more necklaces of varying lengths that dropped to the waist, or longer. The dog collar was particularly popular as Edward’s wife, Queen Alexandra, allegedly favored the style to hide a scar on her neck. As royalty she was a trendsetter and others followed her fashion lead.
Also popular, were brooches and pins. Chic Edwardians wore numerous pins during the day — some were scattered on the bodice, some were worn as epaulets and others were worn in their hair. It was also fashionable to wear a stack of bracelets on each arm and rings on several fingers. Even more bling came out for evening events. But the really big evening jewel was the tiara, which was especially imperative if royalty (king, queen, prince or princess) or upper tier nobility was in attendance. Jeweled combs and other hair ornaments were also important. Bigger brooches were worn, often in multiples, with star motifs being a favorite.
Platinum, Diamonds and Pearls
White-on-white was a prominent design aesthetic for Edwardian jewelry. Diamonds and pearls set in platinum reinforced this style. The diamond mines in South Africa were producing an abundant supply of diamonds making them readily available and cost effective to use in jewelry creations. Pearls on the other hand were much more rare as cultured pearls had not yet been perfected and brought to market. Natural Pearls were much harder to come by making them scarce and far more valuable than other gems.
New Technology
Technology was moving right along during the Edwardian era and two inventions were particularly impactful for jewelry and fashion. The first was the high heat oxyacetylene torch which was invented in 1903. With this torch, jewelers were able to easily heat platinum to its melting point, allowing them to stretch the metal until it became ultra-thin. Platinum, which is a very strong metal was then formed into delicate, but very elaborate settings. The metal was also pierced to create openwork adding to the lightness of the pieces both aesthetically and in terms of weight.
The second major technological advancement was electricity. Its wider availability also had a huge influence on fashion and jewelry. The beautiful heavy, richly colored brocades and velvets that looked stunning in candlelight, suddenly looked drab and dreary under electric lights. Lighter fabrics, such as silk or taffeta, in pastel hues became the new fashion, providing the perfect backdrop for the opulent, white jewelry of the era.
When World War I erupted, the gracious and luxurious lifestyle of the Edwardian era came to an abrupt end.
Top of Page: Bust-length formal portrait photograph of Queen Alexandra wearing King George IV's Diamond Circlet, Royal Family Orders, crown and other pieces of jewelry, circa 1905, Public Domain, courtesy Wikimedia.
Engraved Edwardian ring with one white, one orange-brown and one yellow diamond set in platinum; Edwardian Diamond and platinum bracelet, signed Cartier; Edwardian diamond, natural pearl and platinum topped gold brooch; Edwardian diamond and platinum topped 18-karat gold openwork pendant/pin.
Authored by Amber Michelle