Sleek, rebellious and powerful, the Cartier Panthère is iconic in the world of jewelry, showcasing exceptional diamonds, design and workmanship in feline form. From socialites such as the Duchess of Windsor and Barbara Hutton to actors Zoe Saldaña and Timothee Chalamet, the Panthère has adorned fashionistas for decades. Louis Cartier first introduced the concept of the Panthère on a watch in 1914, but it was the Maison’s creative director, Jeanne Toussaint, who brought the Panthère to life and turned it into the icon that we know today.
Feline Fever
When Toussaint introduced the Panthère to Cartier in 1948, high society was fascinated with wild cats. Chic and stylish, feline themes were incorporated into fashion and interior décor with animal skins popular as coats and rugs. The craze for big cats was perhaps best showcased by the flamboyant American entertainer Josephine Baker, who famously walked her pet cheetah on a leash through the streets of Paris.
It was against this backdrop that Toussaint created her first Panthère jewel, a brooch with a yellow gold and black enamel panther crouching on top of a 116.74-carat emerald, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife, Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. It was a daring design, a juxtaposition to the subtle and sweet floral or bow motifs that were popular then. Toussiant was interested in naturalism and she worked closely with another designer Pierre Lemarchand to create the three-dimensional panthers that highlight the muscularity, movement and expression of the wild cat.
The Duchess returned to the Maison a year later to purchase a second brooch, featuring a diamond panther atop a 152.35-carat cabochon star sapphire, which she was known for wearing on her belt. A leading fashionista of her era, the duchess appeared on the Best Dressed List numerous times and her high profile as a tastemaker brought a lot of attention to the panthers, which led to other wealthy, fashionable women of the time wearing these fabulous felines, which came to symbolize female empowerment and later emerged as the Maison’s signature. Over several years, the Duchess acquired a few more Panthère pieces and was often photographed wearing the jewels.
The Vintage Panthère
Today, the Panthère remains one of Cartier’s most coveted designs, although the contemporary version of the motif has evolved through the years. The first panthers were three-dimensional, made by hand, with superb diamond pave that left almost no metal showing, some versions had sapphire or enamel spots, while other versions sported black onyx spots that were cut specifically for the piece. These early pieces were sculptural, with fluid lines and masterful goldwork. Given the labor intensity of each piece, not many were made, so it is very rare to find one of these early panthers. If you find one of these jewels and you’re considering purchasing it, make sure that you have it thoroughly evaluated for authenticity, as a vintage Panthère piece will have a serious price tag attached to it. Pro Tip: A few things to check — does the piece come with its original box? Does it come with a sales receipt, or documentation from Cartier? Is it signed and numbered?
The Contemporary Panthère
Much of the panther jewelry made by Cartier today showcases the motif in different ways. You’ll find pieces that are three dimensional heads and faces, made with diamond pave, emerald eyes and onyx or black enamel spots. Black enamel is frequently used instead of onyx in contemporary Panthère pieces. Still other contemporary Panthère jewelry highlights the silhouette of the wild cat rendered in precious metals and diamonds, subtle yet powerful.
However, a lot of contemporary Panthère jewelry isn’t always in the form of a feline, instead it nods to the big cat with more abstract pieces comprised of fine diamond pave and enamel spots that are geometric in shape, stylized renditions of nature meant to “recreate the living spirit of the Panthère,” according to Cartier's website.
An immediately recognized symbol of Cartier, the Panthère shows up not only in jewelry but also in the jewelers promotional and marketing materials. An illustration created for Cartier by George Barbier featured a woman with a long sautoir, Poiret style apparel and a panther at her feet. It was used as an invitation and was later used in advertisements for the jeweler, putting panthers front and center for the Maison. Daring and a little scandalous when first introduced, the Panthère has become Cartier’s signature and one of the most recognizable jewels ever created.
Top: Diamond, emerald, black onyx, 18-karat gold "Panthère Lakarda" ring by Cartier Paris, circa 1990s.
Diamond, enamel and 18-karat white gold, Panthère de Cartier, pendant suspended from a black silk cord; Diamond, emerald, onyx and 18-karat white gold Panthère de Cartier earrings; Diamond, enamel and 18-karat gold, Panthère de Cartier necklace.
Authored by Amber Michelle