The New Brown: Desert Diamonds

Rose cut diamond, pearl and 18-karat gold vintage heart brooch.

The epitome of glamour, colorless diamonds have been widely considered the ultimate gemstone. The prestige and beauty of these white diamonds has made them desired and coveted for generations. However, recently, a new hue of diamond is becoming favored: Desert diamonds. These diamonds are warm tones evocative of a light frothy champagne or a rich whiskey and all the wonderful desert tones in between. They have the same scintillating sparkle as a colorless diamond, but they have a soft glow of color that is both unique and romantic, making them a favorite of diamond enthusiasts who may be purchasing a first diamond or adding to an existing diamond collection. Noting that natural diamonds are unique and rare, De Beers, the diamond mining giant and marketer, is throwing its support behind these lovely sparklers.

Desert Diamonds in Vintage Jewelry

Victorian 4.48-carat, L color diamond and 18-karat gold, circa 1900, accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) ReportWhile you’ll find these delightful Desert diamonds in contemporary pieces, you’ll also find these charming gems in vintage jewelry. The 4C’s diamond grading scale wasn’t introduced until the 1940s, when Robert Shipley, founder of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), came up with the system to evaluate diamonds. Before that, consumers bought diamonds based on their beauty and whether or not they liked the gem. In the 1700s and 1800s diamonds were mostly hand cut. While those diamonds are unique and beautiful, they don’t have the same precision angles and facets that are the signature of contemporary diamond cutting, which is meant to bring out the most clarity and highest possible color in the stone. Because of that, many vintage diamonds have a slight hint of color, just a little off-white, but not full on color.

You’ll often find Old Mine diamonds in vintage jewelry that have a slight champagne tint that makes them appear to be a warm white, glowing like a candle, but without enough color to be considered a fancy colored diamond, yet enough to have noticeable color. These wonderfully warm tinted diamonds make a unique statement in individuality, as the colors will vary slightly between gems. If you are looking for a distinctive diamond that is a little different, a Desert diamond may be the answer. The brown tones of Desert diamonds are a beautiful addition to your jewelry wardrobe and the good news is that these gems tend to be affordable. With myriad shades of brown available you’re bound to find something that you love. 

What Gives a Brown Diamond Its Color?

Pear shaped 11.78-carat fancy brown-yellow diamond, white diamond, 18-karat gold and platinum ring, accompanied by GIA Report

Brown hued diamonds get their color naturally as they are forming some 90 to 120 miles deep inside the earth. According to the American Gem Society, the extreme heat and pressure that diamonds experience as they are growing, causes a structural shift  along the planes of the crystal lattice, which changes how light is reflected in the stone, creating shades of brown.

A diamond does not have to fit into the fancy colored diamond category to be considered a Desert diamond. On the diamond color grading scale, D-Z, those gems that get a color grade of J/K or lower will begin to show a tease of color, just a slight hint of yellow, brown, or gray. The closer you get to a Z grade the more color the diamond will show, until it falls into the official fancy colored diamond category, where you’ll see more robust color.

Up until the 1980s brown diamonds were used mostly for industrial purposes as they were found in myriad mines making them readily available. Then in the 1980s a major discovery of brown diamonds was made at the now closed Argyle Mine in Australia. The diamonds were set in jewelry, creating a new perspective on what makes a diamond beautiful. That new source of brown diamonds was very abundant and the gems became a fashionable item that was accessibly priced. 

Desert Diamonds in the News

Fancy brownish-orange 2.01-carat marquise diamond with white marquise diamond side stones, set in 18-karat goldWarm-hued diamonds have become the toast of the town, generating their fair share of headlines as celebrities and fashionistas have been adding them to their jewelry rotation. Most famously football star Travis Kelce proposed to singer Taylor Swift with a warmly tinted old mine cut diamond. Bad Bunny, Doja Cat and Kim Kardashian have all styled Desert diamonds into their look in recent months, putting these rocks firmly in the spotlight.

Desert Diamonds are Uniquely Yours

Edwardian brownish-yellow old mine diamond approximately 1.20-carats and 14-karat rose gold pendant, with Gemmological Certification Services (GSC) report.As the desire for uniqueness and the love of color converge, Desert diamonds, with their inimitable tints, speak to that craving. These diamonds are neutral enough to go with everything in your wardrobe, while still being individual enough to satisfy the quest to find something that most people won’t have. While brown is taking center stage in fashion right now, these diamonds will stay relevant forever as long as they are part of your personal story.

When it comes to wearing jewelry, it’s all about your personal style and the jewels that truly express who you are. Make your one-of-a-kind story even more your own with a singular diamond that lets the world see your true self.

Top: Rose cut diamond, pearl and 18-karat gold vintage heart brooch.

Victorian 4.48-carat, L color diamond and 18-karat gold, circa 1900, accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Report; Pear shaped 11.78-carat fancy brown-yellow diamond, white diamond, 18-karat gold and platinum ring, accompanied by GIA Report; Fancy brownish-orange 2.01-carat marquise diamond with white marquise diamond side stones, set in 18-karat gold; Edwardian brownish-yellow old mine diamond approximately 1.20-carats and 14-karat rose gold pendant, with Gemmological Certification Services (GSC) report.

Authored by Amber Michelle