A secret message between lovers, a memento to remind you of your true love while parted, or a sentimental way to keep family close, Lover’s Eye jewelry was the epitome of style during the late 1700s into the mid 1800s. A very personal reminder of love, Lover’s Eye jewelry was, as the name suggests, a miniature portrait of an eye, specifically the eye of a loved one, often someone with whom the wearer had a romantic relationship.
The eye miniatures, which were later dubbed “Lover’s Eye” by American antique collector and dealer, Edith Weber, were highly detailed. They were painted on ivory or enamel backgrounds, often in watercolors, with a delicate brush, an endeavor that took tremendous skill and patience. Sometimes the eye portrait was further decorated with flowers, hair or inscriptions that added more symbolism to the piece. The placement of the eye, or the gaze, could also add to the message of the portrait, which was then set in a ring, locket, brooch (often worn close to the heart) or even bracelet. Due to the skill and time required to create a Lover’s Eye jewel, these pieces were worn predominately by the aristocracy and those who were wealthy.
A Royal Lover’s Eye
Full body and head portrait miniatures were very popular in Europe during the 1700s and the miniature eye evolved from those images. It was Prince George of Wales who later became King George IV (1762-1830), who popularized the style. The young Prince fell in love with Marie Anne Fitzherbert, a twice widowed Catholic, six years his senior. At the time, it was forbidden for a monarch to marry a Catholic. To avoid scandal, Fitzherbert left the country, but the Prince continued his pursuit.
When George was 21 and Marie was 27, he sent her a letter and a gift, which was a miniature portrait of his right eye. She sent him back a portrait of her eye. The couple married secretly, but the marriage was never officially recognized and George was forced to marry someone else. Allegedly, King George IV was buried with the eye miniature gifted to him by Fitzherbert.
The Lover’s Eye Message
Considering it improper, the strict social etiquette of the 1700s and 1800s frowned upon members of the opposite sex mingling. As was customary at the time, other ways of communicating feelings and emotions without speaking to each other were used including Lover’s Eye jewelry. These pieces were particularly discreet because only an eye was depicted, the person was unidentifiable and the painters didn’t sign the portraits, keeping identities private and anonymous so only the one wearing the jewel knew whose eye was shown. Lovers could wear each other’s eye without anyone knowing their true identity, allowing the couple to keep their love private.
Also of importance in an eye portrait, is the way the eye is looking at you. It tended to be more of a gaze than a glance. In part because looking into the eyes of your beloved creates a deep bond and intimacy between the two parties. Also, during the years when the Lover’s Eye was trending, being seen and seeing others in public was an important part of social decorum. The way men and women made eye contact spoke volumes without anyone saying a word, it was the gaze that did the talking.
A glance could mean one thing, while a full-on gaze in someone’s direction held much meaning from lust to love. On a more serious note the eye might be “watching” you, perhaps as protection, or as a warning from a jealous lover to be faithful while parted from each other. The eye held much expression and emotion. Allegedly, eye jewelry was kissed, held closely and in some cases the person wearing the jewel would speak to it, as if the person was actually present.
Beyond Romantic Love
The late 1700s and early 1800s were historically a hotbed of clandestine liaisons and forbidden love affairs, making the Lover’s Eye a very appealing jewel for those with a secret to keep. While the lover’s eye is associated with romantic love, portraits of family members, spouses, children and other relatives had eye portraits painted to remind them of familial love. On another note, if the eye had a diamond or pearl tear, or was set in a pearl frame, it may have been worn as a remembrance of a deceased loved one.
Eye portraits remained popular into the mid 1800s, fueled in part by Queen Victoria, who was a big fan. She had Sir William Charles Ross, Royal Miniaturist to the Queen, paint eye portraits of children, friends and relatives, often gifting them to others. With the advent of photography in the mid 1800s, the Lover’s Eye fell out of favor as it was replaced with the newer, more modern photograph.
The Lover’s Eye Revived
It’s very rare to find an historic Lover’s Eye jewel, as many have not survived the toll of time and those that have survived are often in museums, however, it is not a completely lost art. Melbourne, Australia-based miniature oil painter, Robin Rich, works in the tradition of the Georgian Lover’s Eye, meaning that she creates her pieces by hand, slowly and meticulously with some eyes being set in jewelry, that combines vintage elements with the portrait.
Antique Lover’s Eye jewelry collections can be found in museums including London’s Victoria & Albert, New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Washington, D.C.-based Smithsonian American Art Museum. If you do happen to find one of these tiny treasures intact, it’s very rare and highly collectible.
Top of Page: Watercolor, gouache and ivory miniature eye painted by Richard Cosway, inscribed Ann Fryer ob. 30th June 1787 AE 19, Courtesy, WikiCommons, Nationalmuseum Sweden, public domain.
Watercolor on ivory, Eye of Maria Miles Heyward, painted by Edward Greene Malbone, circa 1802, Courtesy WikiCommons, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, public domain; Eye of a Gentleman, painting, circa 1824, Courtesy, WikiCommons, Smithsonian American Art Museum, public domain; Old European cut diamond, opal, enamel, platinum and 18-karat gold bracelet with contemporary lover’s eye miniature portrait by Robyn Rich; Diamond, opal and 18-karat gold swivel ring with contemporary lover’s eye miniature portrait by Robyn Rich.
Authored by Amber Michelle