Big, bodacious color is the heart and soul of the joyful jewelry created by Fred Paris. Founder, Fred Samuel, who opened his jewelry business in Paris in 1936, made it his mission to make jewelry an everyday part of life for modern women.
Born in Argentina in 1908, Fred Samuel was the son of French parents who fled from antisemitism in their native country, returning to Paris after World War I. Fred’s father, Albert Samuel, was a gem dealer and his early encounters with gemstones, were a source of inspiration for Fred, especially when he saw them shimmering in sunlight. The sun became a muse for Fred with inspiration from the sun so profound that he became known as the “Sunshine Jeweler”. He was also involved in rowing as a sport at a young age, sparking a lifelong interest in the sea and boats, which also influenced his designs.
Fred began his jewelry training with the renowned Parisian gem dealer, René Worms. During the time that he was working with the Worms Company, Fred learned about cultured pearls, developing a special expertise and passion for pearls. He was particularly enchanted by a very specific creamy pink hue that eventually became known as “Fred Colored”, due to his frequent use of those pearls.
Fred Opens His First Boutique
Fred had such a passion for jewelry and a new way of wearing it, that in 1936 when he was 28-years old, Fred opened his first store, named after himself, on Rue Royal in Paris. A self-described “contemporary creative jeweler”, his business card stated “Fred Samuel, the modern jewelry designer.” The Art Deco architecture of his store provided new design inspiration for Fred, who created an arch motif for his jewelry that echoed the arches in the space, which became one of his signature motifs. Fred’s design vocabulary was filled with curves and rounded forms to give his jewelry a sense of motion and joy. He wanted his jewelry to be worn as part of daily life, so Fred made it easy for his customers to wear his jewelry. When he opened his store he launched a collection of pendants inspired by Paris monuments which could be worn on a chain as a necklace, or as a charm for a bracelet.
Fred opened his store successfully, but in the background, World War II was brewing in Europe. Fred joined the Marching Regiment of Foreign Volunteers, but he was captured and held prisoner by the Germans. Somehow he escaped and by 1940 he had returned to Paris and reopened his store. However, trouble was on the horizon, the store was taken over by the Commissariat-General for Jewish Affairs. In 1942 Fred “sold” his store to a friend and left Paris with his family, going to the Free Zone, an unoccupied territory in Vichy, nonetheless, he was arrested and sent to Vernet Camp. Fortunately, due to various connections in Paris, Fred’s wife was able to get him out of the camp. The experience didn’t stop Fred, he joined the French Resistance and became part of its covert missions. Fred returned to Paris in 1944 and reopened his store.
Royals and Movie Stars Adored Fred
Fred’s love of color was on full display during the 1950s. He received a commission from the King and Queen of Nepal to create jewelry to match the court saris. Fred was inspired by the colorful silks used in the apparel, creating vibrant jewelry overflowing with diamonds and sapphires in a symphony of colors. In 1976, Fred opened a boutique in Monaco, with Princess Grace attending the festivities, which led to the brand becoming a jeweler to the royal family of Monaco.
In addition to his royal clientele, Fred also had a star-studded roster of customers. He collaborated with artists Jean Cocteau and Bernard Buffet to create bespoke jewelry for them. He later organized an exhibition of jewelry by the artist George Barques. The Hollywood crowd also admired his jewelry. Movie stars Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Marlene Dietrich, Catherine Deneuve and Yves Montand were all fans of his work, as was the heiress Barbara Hutton.
Diamond Sunshine
Through the years, Fred became an expert on colored diamonds. He purchased the 105-carat yellow Soleil d’Or diamond, a gem that reminded Fred of sunshine. In 1977 he debuted the diamond in his Paris boutique in an exhibition entitled “Some of the World’s Most Beautiful Diamonds”, which was part of De Beers private collection of exceptional stones. In 1988 he purchased 42 colored diamonds and made them a specialty of the Maison, one of the first jewelers to do so. He was also renowned for purchasing the 235-carat Blue Moon Sapphire, further enhancing his reputation as a connoisseur of colored gemstones.
Fred’s sons Henri and Jean, joined the firm during the 1960s, opening new boutiques in France, Monaco and the United States. It was in 1966 that Fred debuted one of its most beloved designs: The Force 10 Bracelet, conceptualized by his son Henri. A love of sailing and water were the impetus for the design which blends woven steel sailing cable with a gold buckle that may be plain or adorned with diamonds or colored gemstones. It’s a casual, relaxed style that’s easy to wear every day, right in keeping with Fred’s mission.
In 2011, model Kate Moss, who fronted the firm’s ad campaigns, designed a collection of rings inspired by her tattoos. The collection showcased colored gemstone hearts, diamond anchors, stars and moons.
The Pretty Woman Necklace
A Fred Paris necklace featured prominently in the 1990 movie “Pretty Woman”, starring Richard Gere and Julia Roberts. In the film, while getting ready to attend the opera, Gere’s character presents Roberts’ character with a glamourous over-the-top diamond and ruby necklace. The jeweler later developed a collection of jewelry based on that necklace.
Over the years, Fred expanded into a global presence and in 1996, the jeweler was acquired by luxury giant LVMH. Fred Samuel passed away in 2006 at the age of 98. His granddaughter Valerie Samuel, the daughter of his son Henri, was with the firm until 1995, when she left, returning in 2017. She is artistic director and vice president of the jewelry house making her the third generation to lead the Maison which continues to create joyful jewelry meant to be worn every day.
Top: Diamond, coral, chrysoprase, 18-karat gold and platinum owl brooch, signed Fred Paris, circa 1960s.
Diamond, ruby, enamel and 18-karat gold snake bracelet, signed Fred Paris; Diamond, emerald and 18-karat gold earrings, signed Fred Paris, circa 1970s; Diamond, mother-of-pearl and 18-karat gold ring, signed Fred Paris, circa 1970s; Diamond and 18-karat gold earrings, signed Fred Paris, circa 1980s.
Authored by Amber Michelle