Through the years, jewelry fabrication has evolved as new tools, technology and techniques have led to the creation of memorable jewels. Vintage jewelry, often handcrafted by highly trained and skilled artisans, showcases some of these old-world techniques that make jewelry from bygone years so special. While there are a handful of artisans around the world who continue the legacy of this craft, many of these techniques are becoming a lost art, due to the time consuming nature of the work and the resulting expense. From micromosaics inspired by the ancient world, to delicate filigree and exacting millegrain, these three special techniques were used in bygone eras to create lavish jewels that were, and still are, the epitome of chic.
Micromosaic
Made mostly in Italy, micromosaic jewelry was very fashionable during the 1700s and 1800s. Created from minute bits of colored glass, or enamel, known as tesserae, micromosaics are extremely labor-intensive to make. Micromosaic jewelry is created in several steps. First, a precious metal backing is filled with a cement-like glue. Once the backing is prepared an artisan, using tweezers, begins the complex and tedious work of placing each tesserae to form a pattern that eventually creates an image. Much of the imagery used in micromosaics was of flowers, dogs, country life and mythology as well as Egyptian motifs. After the glue holding the tesserae in place dries, wax is applied to fill in the spaces between them. When that is completed, the entire image is polished into a smooth surface. Finished micromosaics were then decorated with elaborate settings to create lavish jewelry.
Millegrain
Often found in very fine antique jewelry, especially from the Edwardian and Art Deco eras, millegrain is a technique used to finish the metal edges of a jewel. Millegrain was developed during the late 19th century to keep precious metal settings from being too shiny so that the sparkle and shimmer of the gems would be the focus of the piece. Millegrain, sometimes spelled milgrain, is applied to the bezels and metal edges of a piece of jewelry. It is used mostly with platinum as the nature of the metal is particularly hospitable to millegraining. A special ridged wheel, known as a knurling tool, which rolls along the metal circumference, is used to create millegrain. The tool leaves an imprint of tiny beads, ridges of metal, or furrows that create a texture around the border of the piece. The result is a highly detailed jewel with a romantic vibe that highlights the gems.
Filigree
When you see a piece of light, lacy looking jewelry, it is often filigree a wire-working technique that creates an open work design. While we associate filigree with jewelry from the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras, the technique has been around since the days of the ancient Mesopotamians. A labor-intensive, time-consuming process, filigree is constructed with very thin silver, gold or platinum wire that is bent, twisted, or braided and then soldered together to form an intricate pattern. Filigree requires a skilled artisan with advanced soldering skills and a lot of patience. Some of the first filigree work was attached to a base, creating a raised pattern, but as jewelry making became more advanced, the base was no longer used, creating the lacy looks we’re used to seeing today.
Whether it’s micromosaic, millegrain or filigree, each of these jewelry making techniques emphasizes the talent of the artisans who skillfully created each piece by hand, showcasing the harmonious beauty that occurs when shimmering gemstones, precious metals and original designs are fused together to form a totally alluring jewel.
Top of Page: Glass micromosaic and gold brooch from Castellani, mosaic possibly by Luigi Podio, Italian, pre-1888, Courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art, WikiCommons, public domain.
Egyptian Revival micromosaic and 15-karat gold ear pendants, circa 1870s; Edwardian diamond, platinum and ribbon bow brooch with millegrain detailing on the settings, signed Cartier, circa 1910; Edwardian, diamond, platinum and 18-karat gold filigree pendant/brooch.
Authored by Amber Michelle