From a family of doctors, Richard Spicer broke the mold, first when he became a drummer for a rock band and later when he discovered vintage jewelry. “I hated academia,” recounts London-based Spicer, of Spicer Warin. “I was playing drums in rock bands and a friend suggested that I work for her mother, who sold jewelry. I started going to the antique markets for her and fell in love with the subterranean world, it was filled with eclectic characters. I found my home and it felt right. It was the first time in my life that I asked questions about anything.”
Finding His Groove
After a while, Spicer bought and sold his own pieces. He bought his first piece for 30 pounds and then sold it for 35 pounds, which really brought home the realization that he could buy and sell jewelry and make money from it. Although he started buying and selling jewelry in 1985/1986, he didn’t get serious about it until 1990, when his first child was born.
Spicer has no real formal training in jewelry, but he notes that he has a “good eye” and seems to inherently understand jewelry. He also admits to learning from his mistakes. “The best university was being in the markets and handling the jewelry, finding out what it sold for, being involved in that world everyday was my education. I hated school, but I loved this. I like history, it’s always appealed to me and it was the one subject where I excelled in school.”
Finely Crafted Jewels
When he first started out, Spicer had a passion for Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry, which is what he mostly sold. He is particularly intrigued by those eras because the jewelry was so finely crafted during those years. As he became more involved in the jewelry world, he also developed a passion for Art Nouveau and Georgian era jewelry.
“Jewelry evokes eras,” comments Spicer. “Art Deco reminds me of the time before the 1929 financial crash. Georgian jewelry was being worn in candlelight and there was a simplicity to the diamond cuts, Art Nouveau is about nature. There is beauty in all of those eras.”
He notes that living in a world of mass produced jewelry makes vintage pieces even more special because they are unique and the jewelry has a connection to history. “History is our connection to humanity,” says Spicer.
Love What You Buy
When you’re buying vintage jewelry, if you don’t know much about it, Spicer suggests buying what you love, something that gives you a warm feeling inside when you look at it. “When you look at something ask yourself: Will I still like it in six months? Buy what you want to live with. If you have to talk yourself into buying a piece, don’t buy it.” Spicer also advises finding a dealer, who is knowledgeable and not pushy, who will let you know if a piece is right or not for you.
Spicer has been in the jewelry industry for forty some years and he says that the business didn’t change much until about the past five years. But he says that the covid lockdowns and the rise of social media during those few years have changed the business. According to Spicer there were very few young dealers coming into the business before covid and now suddenly there are a lot of up and coming dealers. “I’m very impressed by the knowledge of these young dealers. They know way more than I did in my twenties. They are looking at things in a different way.”
One last piece of advice from Spicer, “Buy from a dealer you trust and who makes you feel comfortable. When you have a good feeling about the person that you are buying from that energy comes with the jewelry and adds to the purchase. It will just feel better.”
Top of Page: Richard Spicer
Diamond, ruby, enamel and platinum Art Deco brooch, inspired by Japonism, circa 1920-1930, formerly the property of Alice Geraldine Farrar; Aquamarine, diamond and platinum pendant, signed Tiffany & Co., circa 1915-1920; Diamond, ruby, natural pearl, enamel and platinum panther and parrot jabot, circa 1915-1920.
Authored by Amber Michelle