Ensconced in an Edwardian townhouse in the Mayfair district of London, brothers Morris and Elli Abramov, founders of Morelle Davidson, continue their family tradition in the jewelry business. Morris, who has been in the business for over 40 years, started out making jewelry in a workshop, which eventually evolved into buying and selling jewelry. In 1983, he was joined by his brother Elli.
The brothers launched their business in a booth at London’s famed Portobello Road Antiques Market, renowned as the largest in the world. The business grew and the brothers soon found themselves needing a different space, so in 1986 they moved to the Bond Street Antiques Centre. Then they opened their own store on Conduit Street in 1990 and eventually opened the Morelle Davidson store at their current location on Maddox Street, where they offer fine, vintage and antique jewels for a discerning international clientele. The Jewelers Circle spoke to Morris and Elli about their vintage jewelry business and what makes a great piece of jewelry.
The Jewelers Circle: Do you have a particular area of expertise – era, style of jewelry, gemstones, or something else?
Morris Abramov: Good jewelry consists of fine gems, successful designs and the quality of the make, my aim is to find such jewelry, whether old or modern.
Elli Abramov: With regard to the style of jewelry it has changed according to my mood through the years that I've been in business. There were periods when I was obsessed with Art Deco jewelry. I still appreciate this era, and in some ways it's still at the core of the style I’m drawn to.
TJC: Do you have a favorite designer and why is that designer your favorite?
MA: My favorite designers are Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Cartier, as well as other renowned French makers. In addition, many anonymous jewelers created some of the finest pieces of jewelry. These items are not only pleasing to the eye but also remarkably well-engineered, for example the clasps and other technical features still function perfectly even after more than 100 years.
EA: It would be unfair to single out just one favorite designer, as so many have contributed to the creation of remarkable jewelry over time. One of my favorites was Janesich, who I believe didn’t receive the recognition they deserved and they are, in my opinion, one of the greatest designers. Later on, there were also incredible makers such as Georges Lenfant and I appreciate the abstract pieces by Sterlé.
TJC: What makes good design?
EA: Like any other work of art, what comes first is the idea. Then there’s the use of materials and the harmony between the creativity and the workmanship. Even when it feels impossible, somehow combining these elements will create an aesthetic piece. And of course, all of this must also work in terms of practicality and usability.
TJC: Why is vintage jewelry relevant for consumers today?
MA: Some of the jewelers in the past invested a lot of time, effort and love to create an item of jewelry. Some of this jewelry was made, regardless of how much time was required to make it, with the best stones available, by a very highly devoted craftsman. To make similar items of jewelry today will often cost significantly more and still will not come close to the level found in a lot of the vintage jewelry that we are dealing with.
EA: When we talk about vintage jewelry we are talking about the top pieces which were made in the past and that have filtered through. Over the years the junk is filtered, scrapped and sold, but the best is preserved. Now we see mostly the pieces that are the finest quality, the best design and creations of the past. During the period of Carlo Giuliano, for example, there were many other jewelers making similar designs but they were not making them to the same standard or quality, so over a hundred years later it is his name that remains.
In addition to this, every estate piece we sell is, in terms of intrinsic value, priced far below what it would cost to remake today. For example, if you were to recreate the finest quality Art Deco necklace now, the cost would be significantly higher.
TJC: How do you vet the jewelry that you purchase for inventory?
MA: We vet on appeal of the design, originality, and rarity . The metalwork — how good it is and how successful the technical parts of the items are (snaps, pins, clips, etc.) and the quality of the gems used. Regrettably, how fashionable it is in the market today. Sometimes certain items of jewelry are being bought and sold for a lot more than they deserve due to the fact that they are fashionable. On the other hand, there are very fine items of jewelry being overlooked because they are not presently trendy enough.
EA: The first principle is that I must like the item even if I do not manage to sell it, it has to be good quality, well made and with quality gems.
Top of Page: Morris and Elli Abramov
Diamond, ruby, sapphire, and silver topped gold butterfly brooch, circa late 1800s; Art Deco diamond, aquamarine and platinum double clip brooch; Emerald, 5.62-carat diamond center stone, diamond accents and platinum ring; Edwardian diamond, natural saltwater pearl and platinum earrings, circa 1910s; Opal, lapis lazuli, ruby, diamond and 18-karat gold owl brooch, signed Cartier.
Authored by Amber Michelle