Nestled in a booth in a bustling jewelry exchange on 47th Street in the heart of New York City’s Diamond District, Marcella Altmann presides over L’epoque D’or, an antique and estate jewelry business founded by her mother Gilda Altmann.
Getting Started
“My mother started the business on 47th Street in the late 1970s. She was the queen of 47th Street,” explains Altmann, who started working in the business in the 1980s and then took it over about a decade ago, when her mother retired. Altmann credits her mother with teaching her everything she knows today. “The business has evolved since then. Jewelry has become more accessible through computers and auctions. I’m able to buy from more people and through shows that we do.”
As it turns out, buying jewelry is Altmann’s favorite part of being in the antique and estate jewelry business. “Buying is exciting. It’s thrilling to find beautiful pieces,” she says, noting that while she likes all jewelry eras, her favorite is Art Deco because of its pure architectural forms.
When she buys jewelry, Altmann keeps the customer in mind. “My customers want fine French, beautifully made jewelry and signed jewelry such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, just to mention a few. These were the finest jewelers and they made the best jewelry,” she explains, noting that she has an eye for certain things. “The French jewelers were amazing. The quality of the au jour, stones and workmanship were often spectacular.”
Before Jewelry
Prior to entering the jewelry business, Altmann dabbled in real estate and catering. She even sold semiprecious stone bracelets for a while before taking the Gemological Institute of America’s Diamond Course. “I’ve learned by being in the business, by putting my own money down and by making mistakes,” comments Altmann, who notes that she has made very few mistakes, which were mostly overpaying for pieces. “Through years of experience, I know how to vet pieces because I know about hallmarks and how pieces are made.” She’s nicknamed “eagle eye”, because she has an eye for the best merchandise.
As much as she loves buying jewelry, Altmann also enjoys selling. “I like to talk to people and they like to talk to me,” she says. “I engage with people. Sometimes they say ‘why is something so expensive?’ They buy and always come back for more. There is no rhyme and reason as to why we pay the prices we do for certain pieces. That’s the nature of this business. Building a relationship with other dealers and stores is important, my reputation is important.”
Instagram Interest
One of the ways that Altmann boosts her business is through Instagram, where she has over 30,000 followers. “My daughter showed me how to use Instagram, she helped me with some videos and then it really took off,” recounts Altmann, who started her Instagram page in 2017. “We’re very selective about what we put up, we’re careful about putting up only nice pieces. We also add music, which really, really helps. It’s a lot of work, but it reaches a big audience.”
What Makes Jewelry Fine?
Draped in layers of Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklaces and bracelets, Altmann believes that like art, there will always be value in this type of jewelry, especially signed and French pieces. “Putting money into fine jewelry is a good investment,” says Altmann.
One of the best things about vintage, antique and estate jewelry is that many of the pieces are well made because labor was less expensive and artisans were highly skilled. “You just know fine jewelry when you see it,” concludes Altmann. “The back is just as nice as the front, the quality of the stones and design are excellent and the work is very fine.”
Top of Page: Marcella Altmann, L’epoque D’or
Diamond, ruby and 18-karat gold brooch, French, circa 1960s; Turquoise, ruby and 18-karat gold ring, signed Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., circa 1960s; Diamond, aquamarine and platinum bracelet, circa 1950s; Coral, diamond, emerald, 18-karat gold, leopard brooch, French, 1960s.
Authored by Amber Michelle