A chance encounter in Southern Spain catapulted Jorge Chamizo de Caceres, who is from Madrid, into a career in the jewelry industry. That chance encounter happened to be with estate jeweler Michael McTeigue, of the New York-based family firm bearing his name. In 1996, Chamizo moved to New York and joined McTeigue initially running errands and learning the jewelry business in the process. During his time in New York, Chamizo studied at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), but notes that most of his training was hands on while he was working with his colleagues. It was in those moments sitting with bench jewelers and discussing a piece that Chamizo learned the art of jewelry making.
The Next Steps
After 16 years spent in the U.S., Chamizo moved to Hong Kong where he worked for the Faerber Collection, another storied family business. “While I was working for the Faerber Collection, I was introduced to a whole new world of collectible gems and jewelry and I developed an appreciation for those jewels. I also met a new circle of jewelers and jewelry enthusiasts,” explains Chamizo, who launched his Hong Kong-based business, Arts International, in 2018.
Jewelry is meant to be worn and enjoyed, so Chamizo frequently transforms vintage jewelry to make it more wearable and versatile. He notes that lifestyles and jewelry styles both change which then shifts how jewelry is worn. Among other things, he turns dress clips into bangles and circular brooches into rings that suit the person who is wearing it. “Transforming jewelry has been done for centuries,” says Chamizo who splits his time between Hong Kong where his business is based and Melbourne, Australia where he lives with his husband. “Transforming a double clip brooch by adding a handmade lacquer bangle elevates the brooch and also gives a person more chances to wear the jewel as it can now be worn as a brooch or as a bracelet. I love the response I get from my clients who appreciate the new styling of their vintage pieces so the jewelry now fits their lifestyle.”
The Lover’s Eye Made Modern
Recently Chamizo has been working with portrait artist Robyn Rich who he met through a mutual friend in Melbourne to create “Lover’s Eye” jewelry, a popular trend in the Georgian era. The jewels were literally a portrait of an eye that was gifted as a love token meant to remind the wearer of their loved one until they could be together again. Chamizo and Rich collaborated to make this sentimental jewel new again. “People send a picture of their loved one’s eye. Robyn paints it and then I take the portrait to my workshop where the jeweled frame is made. The back of the piece is made from Australian opal,” explains Chamizo.
Chamizo admits to being curious by nature and as a result has always been interested in different cultures, the way people live and how they express themselves. “I love to observe different markets and I have an eye for the type of jewelry that works best for people in different locations or cultural contexts,” says Chamizo, who travels the world in search of beautiful jewelry.
A Deep Appreciation for Craftsmanship
While many dealers favor a particular era for its history and design, Chamizo says that he admires jewelry from all eras and countries. “I love 19th century jewels because they were exquisitely exclusive,” comments Chamizo. “I love the design and cultural context of art deco, and I also love the dynamic innovation and abstract expression from mid-century pieces. I really appreciate craftsmanship and the work that goes into each piece of jewelry.”
The biggest change that Chamizo has seen in the vintage jewelry business since he started in the 1990s, is not surprisingly the internet, which has made information widely available to everyone instantaneously. “Advances in technology have facilitated mass production of luxury goods to a wider market, which I think makes the vintage jewelry niche more unique and attractive for discerning clients.”
For Chamizo, beyond the beauty of the jewelry and the individual stories that vintage and antique pieces tell, he cherishes the personal relationships that he develops with his clients, noting that it’s not just a jewelry business but a people business. “I love connecting people with beauty,” concludes Chamizo. “I love it when clients tell me how much they enjoy wearing a piece from my collection. I’m always happy to share beauty.”
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Antique Bacchus carving in a modern ring setting; Diamond double dress clips attached to modern lacquer bangles; Lover’s Eye and Opal swivel ring; Antique Shakudo and natural pearl earrings in a modern setting.
Authored by Amber Michelle