Weddings are always a time of joy and celebration. Special clothes and jewelry for the big day also help to make the festivities memorable. But in India, wedding jewelry is more than just adornment, it signifies a woman’s transition from single to married and invokes the blessings of the Gods and Goddesses as well as age old traditions. A wedding suite of jewelry is comprised of several pieces and while these items are worn for most weddings in India, there will be some variations depending upon the region where the nuptials take place.
Indian weddings are elaborate affairs often lasting days. In a Hindu wedding, the date is based upon the astrological charts of the bride and groom. Centered on their charts, an auspicious day is selected that is thought to bring luck and prosperity to the couple.
Jewelry is an integral part of any Indian wedding and it starts well before the ceremony takes place. The first gift comes when the engaged couple exchange jewelry, in some regions of India it is customary for the bride to be gifted a gold necklace, while the groom receives a gold ring. Gold is highly esteemed in India, not only for its monetary value, but also as a symbol of prosperity, financial security, divine blessings and a deepening of family bonds and familial love. Thought to attract happiness and abundance, the yellow metal is associated with Lakshmi, the Hindu Goddess of prosperity. Worn from head to toe, there are a number of pieces in a wedding jewelry suite, each with its own special significance.
The Maang Tikka
One of the most important jewels for a bride is the maang tikka. It is a headpiece that has a tail that runs along the part of the hair, suspending a decorative element that rests on the forehead. This placement, which is considered sacred, is near the “third eye” located on the forehead between the eyes. It is believed that the jewel will open intuition and it is thought to encourage spiritual, physical and emotional bonds between the couple. It also is said to highlight the bride’s aura and protect from negative influences.
The Mangal Sutra
Necklaces, which often match the maang tikka, are large, bold and elaborate. Often a bib style, they may be gold, or embellished with diamonds or colored gemstones. One necklace that has special significance in a wedding is the mangal sutra, which means sacred thread, it is a symbol of marriage and commitment. The necklace is a delicate gold chain with black beads meant to protect the bride from the evil eye. During the wedding ceremony the groom places it on the bride’s neck, it represents a prayer for the couples health and prosperity as well as signifying the unity of the couple, marriage and commitment.
A nose ring, called nath, dates back to the Mughal empire. It can be worn on either side of the nose, but is generally worn on the left side as it is thought to enhance fertility and relieve pain during childbirth. The nose ring indicates the transition to womanhood and is also a symbol of a happy marriage.
Earrings and Rings
An Indian wedding jewelry suite always includes earrings, often the traditional jhunki style. These large bell shaped earrings often have dangling adornments and tend to be big and showy. When it comes to finger rings, brides arrive at the ceremony wearing engagement rings along with any other rings that they desire to wear on that day.
Bangles
Bangles are worn on both arms and unlike Western wedding traditions, where we want our jewelry to be quiet, in India, it is expected that the bracelets will jingle as the sound is thought to evoke the joy of the wedding day, it is also said that the sound will attract positive energy into the couple’s life. Bangles also indicate that a woman is newly married. Like most of the jewelry in an Indian wedding suite, bangle styles will vary between regions. Gold, glass or bejeweled bangles are all acceptable. In the Punjabi area, brides wear 21 red and ivory bangles on each arm. The bangles are worn for forty days after the ceremony. In Southern India gold and green glass bangles are worn, as green symbolizes fertility. In other traditions a thicker bangle embellished with gemstones is worn representing strength and resilience.
Anklets and Toe Rings
Anklets, known as payal, are worn around the ankles. Made in silver, because they are in the foot area, which is considered less holy, anklets are heavily embellished with tiny bells that jingle and tinkle as the bride walks announcing her arrival, both at the wedding ceremony and at her new home. The anklet is generally worn with toe rings (bicchiya), two on the second toe of each foot is customary, signifying a married woman. These jewels are also thought to maintain good health, especially reproductive health, and to attract positive energy. Rings are worn on the second toe, because it is believed that a nerve in that toe connects directly to the uterus.
The Groom
Jewelry is also part of the groom’s wedding day finery as well. The groom wears a special coat called sherwani for the wedding, it is usually knee length and fits close to the body, providing a beautiful backdrop for jewelry. Pearl necklaces, especially multistrands, are favored, but other necklaces may also be worn. Rings and brooches are also worn, as are cufflinks, bracelets or a turban embellished with a feather or brooch.
Guests
If you’re a guest at an Indian wedding, feel free to wear a lot of jewelry, but as with any wedding, don’t out bling the bride. Also, in India brides often wear red so best to avoid that color. Also, avoid wearing white as it is associated with funerals in India. Black is another color that is not worn to a wedding. Instead, opt for bold colors and statement jewelry.
Rich in tradition, brides in India wear wedding jewelry not only for adornment, but for the spiritual connection that it represents and as a way of bringing families together.
Top of Page: Indian bride and groom, image by Arto Suraj, courtesy unsplash.
Indian bride, image by Alok Verma, courtesy Unsplash; Bridal nose ring, image by Dollar Gill, courtesy Unsplash; Indian wedding earring in the traditional jhunki style, image by Yugaljoshi, courtesy Wikicommons; Indian bride wearing wedding bangles, image by Aman Agrahari, courtesy Wikicommons; Groom's wedding outfit, image by Kashis1711, courtesy Wikicommons.
Authored by Amber Michelle