One of the most important design movements of the twentieth century, Art Deco, references the twenty year period from 1920 to 1940, sometimes known as the years between the wars, but the foundation for this artistic style began much earlier. Art Deco was about modernity and a new look, its straight lines and pared back geometric forms were a mutiny against the formal garland styles that were filled with curves and elaborate ornamentation that dominated the earliest years of the 1900s. This new look was an aesthetic that filtered into all of the decorative arts including furniture, architecture, home accessories, jewelry and even utilitarian objects such as vacuum cleaners and other household items.
The Beginning of Art Deco
The Bauhaus (1919-1933) art school in Germany had an outsized influence in the early aesthetics of the Art Deco movement. The school supported exploring minimalism and simplicity in the decorative arts, focusing on abstract shapes, geometric forms and function with no adornment or flourishes. The Bauhaus closed in 1933 when the faculty voted to shut down rather than cooperate with the Nazis who viewed the school as a breeding ground for communist ideology. However, its closing did not end the movement to redefine design. A number of the Bauhaus faculty moved to the United States where they continued to influence art and design.
During the 1920s, Art Deco jewelry was imbued with references to foreign cultures. One of the most important of those was the Ballet Russe, which came to Paris in 1909. The ballet showcased elaborate sets filled with vivid colors that evoked Asian culture, catching the attention of the public and igniting a desire for Japanese and Chinese themes in the decorative arts, including jewelry.
One of the most important historical events of the 20th century happened in 1922 when the tomb of King Tutankhamen was found. The discovery of the tomb sparked an interest in anything Egyptian — especially scarabs, lotus flowers and pyramids. African art, Cubism and jazz music were also influential in Art Deco design. The result was a merger of sleek linear form, daring color combinations and exotic motifs that created a stunning, bold modern style.
Fashion Evolution
Deeply entwined with fashion, when clothing and hairstyles change so does jewelry. And the 1920s ushered in many changes in how women dressed. During World War I women held down the jobs that men had before leaving for war. To move and function more easily in these jobs women cut their hair short and also shortened the hemlines on their dresses. Corsets were discarded and tubular, knee length dresses with a dropped waistline, or no waistline, were fashion forward. This new style of dressing called for jewelry that complemented the straighter silhouettes. Jewelers obliged by creating novel jewelry that was geometric, symmetrical, sophisticated and a reflection of the overall design aesthetic of the era.
Jewelry in the 1920s tended to be long. Newly bobbed hair put long earrings in the spotlight, while dresses with dropped waistlines provided the perfect background for a long sautoir or ropes of pearls. Flat, narrow bracelets with repeating patterns were worn stacked to decorate arms left bare by sleeveless dresses. Since they were made to be stacked, or worn over a glove, Art Deco era bracelets are often quite long. Brooches were ubiquitous and it was during the 1920s that dress clips – two matching brooches — were introduced. Fashionistas wore this new jewel everywhere — on cloche hats, coats, collars, handbags, belts and even as shoe ornaments.
Another very popular item was the bandeau, a headband worn low on the forehead and frequently decorated with a feather. It was a very flattering style with short hair and was much less formal and a little more fun than a tiara. The cocktail ring, a jewel that is still popular today, was introduced in the 1920s, becoming one of the decade’s chicest jewels.
From 1920s Opulence to 1930s Austerity
The posh lifestyles of the 1920s were replaced with austerity when the stock market crashed in 1929 and the Great Depression settled in. Despite having negative economic ramifications globally, there were still many wealthy people and they craved jewelry. Movies had a big impact on jewelry, because, during the 1930s, movies were a primary source of entertainment for people searching for an affordable escape from the drudgery of the depression. The hottest movie stars of the day wore dazzling jewels in their films, creating more desire for jewelry.
By the 1930s, fashion had once again changed. Waistlines returned to the natural waist, while hemlines dropped to longer lengths. Glamour was an important part of the 1930s aesthetic and fluid satin fabrics worn with fur stoles and jewelry were popular for evening wear.
Changing Jewelry Styles
Jewelry styles during the 1930s changed along with clothing styles. Long 1920s jewels were replaced with shorter pieces during the following decade putting the focus on the face. Earrings were rolled into scrolls, shells, or flowers that framed the face, necklaces were worn on the throat, once again bringing attention to the face. Bracelets became wider with large plaques and due to Hollywood’s influence they were made to fit the wrist more tightly. Film makers didn’t want bracelets jingling in the background of their movies, distracting the audience, so they requested bracelets that fit more snugly on the wrist, launching a new trend. It was also notable that during the 1930s, some jewelry began to have a rounded or slightly domed shape.
Day time jewelry in the 1930s was understated and simple, a bracelet, a brooch and a ring were all that was needed. But for evening the bling came out. Large gems, ornate designs, statement cocktail rings, big earrings and dress clips were trending for those who could afford it. The must have jewel for any fashionista in the 1930s was the dress clip, which could be a small single clip or two clips that could be joined together to form one brooch. Sustaining its hot streak from the 1920s, dress clips continued to be worn on all types of apparel.
A New Era
The extravagant glamour of Art Deco came to a screeching halt when World War II started. Many jewelry makers served in the war, returning to their workshops in the 1940s, often making the same styles they had been producing before the war. However, times had changed and a new look was taking hold as the world careened into a post war boom and a new style of jewelry.
Top of Page: Art Deco diamond and platinum bracelet, circa 1930s.
Art Deco diamond, coral, enamel and platinum earrings, French, circa 1920; Art Deco diamond and platinum dress clips, signed Ghiso, circa 1920s; Art Deco Diamond, carved emerald, enamel and platinum necklace, circa 1930s; Art Deco diamond and platinum earrings, French, circa 1930s; Art Deco diamond, coral, emerald, sugarloaf cabochon onyx, 18-karat gold and platinum cocktail ring, signed Marchak, France, circa 1925.