Pyramids, the sphinx, the glamourous Queen Cleopatra and King Tut have all contributed to our fascination with Egypt. Historians and archeologists have studied the hieroglyphs of Egypt revealing secrets of this ancient culture, which has captivated the world for centuries, but especially between the late 1700s and early 1900s. During that time, Egyptian themes were found in the decorative arts, including jewelry. What was it about Egypt that attracted so much attention? There were several events that brought global awareness to Egypt during that time period.
The Fascinating World of Egyptology
The world’s fascination with Egypt started with Napoleon Bonaparte, who invaded the country in 1798. When Napoleon headed to Egypt, he took not only soldiers, but also engineers, artists and archeologists who were tasked with studying everything about Egypt. It was this event that triggered the beginning of Egyptology, the scientific study of ancient Egypt.
It proved to be an exciting time for ancient Egyptian history, when in 1799 a French soldier discovered a slab of black basalt with ancient writing on it in the town of Rosetta in the Nile delta region of Egypt. The slab which became known as the Rosetta Stone, had writing in Greek as well as Egyptian hieroglyphics and Egyptian demotic. The Rosetta Stone was instrumental in assisting scientists with uncovering the meaning of hieroglyphics, a written language that had not been used in 2000 years. Since part of the Rosetta Stone was written in Greek, it was translated in 1822, marking a significant moment in the new field of Egyptology. This discovery enabled scholars to decipher the hieroglyphs, providing a broader look at Ancient Egypt.
The building of the Suez Canal, constructed between 1859 and 1869, also drew worldwide attention to Egypt. Globally, people watched with great anticipation as construction progressed on a new waterway that formed a much shorter maritime route between Europe and Asia. On November 17, 1869, the Suez Canal opened to much fanfare.
Egyptian Motifs in Jewelry
With so much interest in Egypt from the public, known as Egyptomania, it wasn’t long before artists began using Egyptian motifs in jewelry and other decorative arts. There were several popular themes, one of the most prevalent themes was the scarab, a type of beetle that represents rebirth and renewal. Another favorite was Horus, the Egyptian God, depicted as human with a falcon’s head. Cats were an important symbol of magical power and cobras were seen as protective. Lotus flowers and pyramids were also fashionable.
Some of the most important jewelry makers of the time were developing pieces with Egyptian symbols. Jewelry powerhouses Boucheron and Mellerio were among those who showcased Egyptian themed jewels at the 1867 Paris Exposition. Castellani, Fontenay and Giuliano were leaders in revival jewelry and included Egyptian themed pieces in their collections.
The King Tut Effect
Interest in everything Egyptian continued, but reached another peak in 1922, when on November 4, British archeologist Howard Carter discovered the tomb of King Tut, which revealed a valuable cache of objects and jewelry. Consumers were clamoring for anything Egyptian and jewelers answered. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co. and numerous other jewelry makers began creating items with Egyptian themes in the Art Deco style.
Each jewelry house had its own interpretation of Egyptian motifs. Tiffany & Co. incorporated ancient Egyptian faience, a form of ceramic, into its creations; they also made scarabs from Favrile glass. Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels notably designed wide, flat plaque bracelets that depicted stories from the ancient world using Egyptian motifs sparkling with diamonds, black onyx, or colored gemstones. Cartier also combined antique Egyptian artifacts with gold settings inspired by the architecture, flora and mythology of the country.
King Tut’s Tour
After World War II, interest in Egypt began to wane. However, that changed when the exhibition, “The Treasures of Tutankhamun”, traveled to the world’s most important museums between 1972 and 1981. The exhibition was wildly successful and sparked a new interest in Egypt. Marking the 50 year anniversary of the discovery of King Tut’s tomb, the exhibition was a compilation of 50 treasures found there. The exhibition was reportedly seen by some 8 million people globally. At this time, jewelry inspired by the treasures of Egypt was created mostly by costume jewelry makers, including Kenneth Jay Lane, Trifari, Monet, Miriam Haskell and Whiting & Davis.
If you have a flair for the exotic, or you’re enchanted by ancient Egyptian culture, you’ll find vintage and antique jewelry, both costume and fine, with Egyptian motifs that are both highly collectible and beautiful to wear.
Top of Page: Art Deco diamond, ruby, enamel and 18-karat gold Egyptian Revival Phoenix brooch, circa 1925.
Victorian scarab and 18-karat gold Egyptian Revival bracelet, circa 1875; Micromosaic and 15-karat gold Egyptian Revival ear pendants, with fitted box, French, circa 1870; Art Deco diamond, sapphire and platinum Egyptian Revival “Lotus Flower” bracelet, signed Tiffany & Co.; Opal and 18-karat gold Egyptian Revival bracelet, signed Jaques & Marcus, New York, circa 1900.
Authored by Amber Michelle