One of today’s most popular earring styles, hoops, were also very chic in the ancient world. Dating back thousands of years, hoops are widely considered to be the first earring design and today they are a staple in any jewelry wardrobe. While we think of hoops as being a circle, they have also evolved into other shapes — square, rectangular, or heart shaped; bejeweled or unadorned precious metal, the versatility of hoops is showcased in their many sizes and shapes.
The First Hoop Earrings
The Nubians, who lived in what is now Sudan, were among the first to wear hoop earrings around 2,500 BCE. Of course at the time, hoops were worn by royals and nobles to show power and unity. Allegedly Cleopatra, and other Egyptian rulers, also wore hoop earrings, as did the Greeks and Romans. Many of these earrings were simple gold hoops, a concept similar to the unadorned precious metal hoops worn today, but others were embellished with animals and deities.
The Greeks and Etruscans made very elaborate hoop earrings embellished with goldsmithing techniques. Meanwhile, archeological excavations discovered jade hoop earrings in Asia dating back as far as 5000 BCE. In India Hindu Gods and Goddesses as well as Buddha are all depicted wearing hoop earrings, a circle after all represents unity, wholeness and the infinity of life.
The Middle Ages were not one of the better eras for jewelry, while it was worn by the aristocracy and clergy to show rank and power, adorning oneself with jewels was seen as vain and a sin, so most people didn’t wear a lot of jewelry. Hairstyles that covered the ears and high collars also were thought to contribute to the lack of earrings, although small hoops were sometimes worn.
Hoops Make a Comeback
By the time the Renaissance rolled around, hoops were becoming bigger and more embellished with the addition of gemstones and intricate metal work. During the 1700s, hoops fell out of fashion. As the era’s trendsetters viewed hoops as outdated and old fashioned.
During the Victorian era in the 1800s, hoops were in and out of fashion. Hoops were popularized by the archeological revival jewelry that was so fascinating to people of that era. However, hairstyles changed a few times during the 1800s and sometimes hair covered the ears, so earrings were not always worn.
Cultural Significance
The significance of hoop earrings has changed in the 20th century, the style is worn mostly as a chic fashion statement. However, for those in the Latina and African American cultures, hoops are an important part of stepping into one’s identity and hoops are sometimes viewed as a connection to indigenous ancestors. In Latina cultures, babies often have their ears pierced when they are a few months old, with their mother or grandmother gifting the child with tiny gold hoops.
Contemporary Chic
Hoops have been in and out of favor (mostly in) during the 20th century. While hoops had a place in fashion during the first half of the 20th century, the style really found its groove in the second half of the century.
Boho fashion burst back onto the scene in the 1960s as hippies dressed to upend tradition and the hottest earring style to add to this fashion revolution was the hoop, the bigger the better. Hoops worked really well with the long, straight hairstyles of the decade and as the world moved into the 1970s so did hoops, remaining a hit with the disco crowd as well.
In the 1980s when it became all about work, hoops took on a new dimension. They shrunk in size and sometimes widened, fitting closely to the earlobe. These small hoops became known as huggies because they hug the earlobe. Hoops continued to trend into the 1990s and early aughts as hip-hop culture demanded bling and oversized hoops fit right in. Especially the inside out hoops that have diamonds on the outer circle and on the inside back of the hoop, so that you only see the dazzling gems.
Skinny or wide, big or small, dazzling in diamonds or gemstones, or shining in precious metals, there’s a hoop style for everyone and every occasion, so you may just want to choose a few pairs to add to your jewelry collection.
Top of Page: Oscar Ramirez, courtesy Unsplash.
Twisted hoop 18-karat gold earrings, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1980s; Diamond and 14-karat gold hoop earrings; Diamond, coral and 18-karat gold hoop earrings signed Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970s; Diamond and 18-karat gold hoop earrings, signed Gubelin, circa 1980s.
Authored by Amber Michelle