Born into a family of diamond cutters and watchmakers, David Gross continues the legacy by creating elegant colored gemstone jewelry. David spent a number of years in the family business, MJ Gross, a diamond manufacturing firm, before starting his own company David Gross Group, 14 years ago in New York City’s famed Diamond District. David became intrigued with color after marketing and selling a 7-carat fancy intense orangey-pink diamond for MJ Gross. After what was a very interesting and fulfilling experience, David decided to become more involved with colored gemstones. As a diamond dealer, David brings a different perspective to the cut of the gem and design of a piece.
The Importance of Cut
For David, cut is one of the most important characteristics of a colored gem and he notes that the cut of the stone can have a significant impact on how it looks. Depending upon how the gemstone is cut, the intensity of the color changes.
“Most colored gemstone dealers focus on color saturation, brilliance, hue and origin of the stone, but only some of them put the emphasis on cut and clarity. I quickly discovered that when you put the emphasis on color and then focus on cut and clarity, the end result is something breathtakingly beautiful,” explains David, who says that if there are flaws in a gem, how it is cut will determine whether or not you see those inclusions.
Somewhat of a perfectionist, David seeks the best for all of his jewelry from the gemstones to the setting and he admits that after he purchases a gem it is not unusual for him to get it recut. “I usually buy polished gems, because I’m very particular about clarity. If you buy a piece of rough, you have to deal with whatever comes out of the stone. I like to start with a clean, polished stone and then recut it to make it even better.”
Setting the Stone
David also pays close attention to how a gemstone is set, believing that the setting is there to enhance the center stone. In his view, the center stone is the focal point and the side stones and design are there to enhance it. “The faceting of the side stones have to either match or contrast the center stone,” says David. “A well-made piece of jewelry is one where the design flows throughout the piece. Components that are stiff will never have a good feel. The finish has to be very good. A truly well-made piece of jewelry is a sum total of hundreds of minute details.”
Engaged With Color
One of the biggest shifts in colored gemstones that David is seeing right now is that people are looking for colored gemstone engagement rings. He says that the strong interest in colored gemstone engagement rings has to do with people wanting something that is uniquely theirs. Color answers that with its many variations of hue, tone and saturation.
Buying Advice
When you’re buying a colored gemstone, David advises that you first do your research. “You must be confident in what you purchase. A gemstone is something that you will cherish for years to come, so you want to get the right stone. Read about a gem, there are pros and cons to every stone. When you feel more confident it will help you make your purchase.”
He also suggests working with a reputable dealer, or website. It is also important to make sure that you get a gemological report verifying that the gem is what it is supposed to be. He also says don’t be embarrassed to ask questions and he points out that if you do feel uncomfortable asking the person selling the stone a question, you may not be in the right place.
Last, but not least, David offers one last bit of advice for buying a colored gemstone. “I personally believe that any gemstone should speak to you,” concludes David. “Something about the stone has to resonate with you. It’s not enough to buy a stone because someone says it’s nice and valuable. It’s not only about the report or origins, but does the gemstone speak to you?”
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Authored by Amber Michelle