Conjuring up visions of long sun-drenched days on the Mediterranean and languid, warm nights dining al fresco, coral is synonymous with summer and balmy weather. Its colors from pale angelskin pink to deep reddish tones perfectly encapsulate the vibe of the Riviera and casual glamour.
What is Coral?
Coral is a tiny spineless marine polyp with a soft body and external skeleton made of calcium carbonate. There are over 7,000 species of coral, and only about 10 of those corals, known as precious coral, are used in jewelry making. Those corals are all in the Corallidae family and are much deeper in the water than other corals.
CIBJO’s (The World Jewellery Confederation) Coral Commission defines precious coral as: “Those that are used in jewelry and decoration, specifically red, pink and white varieties with porcelain-like luster and polishing.” Reef coral, by contrast, is hard, brittle, porous and not suitable for jewelry making. There are stringent rules regarding harvesting coral to ensure that it remains sustainable, making vintage jewelry with coral a good choice if you want a piece of jewelry showcasing the organic gem.
Coral and the Grand Tour
The use of coral in jewelry dates back to the ancient Egyptians, with the gem being found in burial sites in both Egypt and Europe. Beloved for its distinctive color, and talismanic properties of protection, coral was particularly popular in the middle years of the Victorian era. Coral is found in a number of places, with the Mediterranean a major source, so it makes sense that with its proximity to the sea, Italy, especially artisans in Genoa and Naples were skilled in the use of coral. Those talented artisans carved coral into figurines, cameos, beads, crosses and more with many of these items of vintage coral jewelry remaining just as chic today as they were then.
Italy was an important stop for tourists on the “Grand Tour” of Europe and they purchased coral jewelry as a souvenir for themselves and for friends and family at home. Wearing coral at that time was considered a sign of sophistication and worldliness. Towards the end of the Victorian era, coral was still worn, but it was not as desired as it was in the earlier years.
Coral made a big comeback when Art Deco took the world by storm. Its vibrant color was used to contrast black onyx, lapis lazuli, colorful enamels and diamonds creating bold, dramatic jewels. Asian influences were central to many Art Deco designs and coral added an aura of exoticism to those jewels.
Coral Today
Coral’s popularity began to wane in the 1930s fading from popularity until the 1960s when the gem came roaring back into fashion, remaining particularly desirable through the 1970s. It was during those decades that fashion began to become more casual and jewelry was needed to meet that moment. Enter coral, with its opaque, lush color, it was more low-key than a faceted transparent gem, and its smooth polished luster contrasted beautifully with the organic textured gold that was so frequently used in the mid 20th century
Today with bohemian styles at the forefront of fashion, coral returns to center stage. Its bold hue adds a bright pop of color and adds a dash of refinement to whatever you may be wearing. Coral jewelry looks perfect when you’re draped in a sarong (perhaps fastened with a coral brooch) after a day at the beach. And it looks equally at home paired with linen skirts, trousers, or tops, a style that is everywhere for summer.
The color of coral works well with the cobalt blue that is finding favor with today’s fashion set. It’s also beautiful with the various chocolate browns and camel tones that are favored neutrals of the moment. Pair it with pink or red for a more dramatic and exotic effect.
Caring for Coral
It’s important to care for your coral jewelry properly. That means, storing it in a dark, cool place as prolonged exposure to bright light and/or heat may fade the color. Store your coral jewelry in its own individual pouch, or in a separate compartment of your jewelry box, to avoid scratching. Also, coral can be damaged from household products including make-up, perfume, hairspray or detergents. Put your coral jewelry on after you've finished applying all of your cosmetics.
Whether you choose Victorian, Art Deco or more contemporary coral vintage jewelry there are many designs and nuanced shades of coral that will complement your style today and beyond.
Top of Page: Victorian coral and 18-karat gold necklace, by Eugene Fontenay, France.
Carved coral, diamond and 15-karat gold brooch, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, France, circa 1960s; Art Deco coral, diamond and platinum ring, signed Sellier & Dumond, France, circa 1925-1937; Contemporary coral and 18-karat gold earrings; Diamond, coral, and 18-karat hammered gold bracelet, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris, circa 1970s.
Authored by Amber Michelle