Flowing skirts and billowy blouses have been floating down the runways the past couple of seasons, putting bohemian style centerstage, as designers including Chole and Ulla Johnson, embrace this carefree style. While we tend to think of bohemian fashion as a look that came out of the 1960s counterculture hippie movement, its origins were actually centuries earlier, during the French Revolution (1789-1799). While bohemian fashion looks much different today, it is the essence of what it represents that has staying power: Art and individuality.
Artistic Independence
Before the French Revolution, creatives from artists to musicians and everyone in between, had a patron, generally a wealthy aristocrat who paid them for their services. When the French Revolution erupted, many of the wealthy aristocrats either left the country, or lost much of their money, leaving them unable to afford their patronages. This left creatives in a very bad spot, with their patronages gone and no way to make money, they sank into poverty.
While clothes were a necessity, with money tight, they were also a luxury. Creatives began wearing used clothes that were often oversized and billowy, but in no way represent what we consider bohemian today. However, the look soon came to represent a lifestyle of free-spirited, artistic independence.
The word bohemian came about because the nomadic Romani gypsies migrated from Bohemia in Eastern Europe to France. The gypsies had a style of dress that was similar to what the creatives were doing and soon the look became known as “bohemian”. While it started out as an insult, bohemian gradually evolved into a description of creatives and intellectuals with artistic sensibilities and an unconventional lifestyle. For fashion that meant a move away from the stiff, structured clothes of the late 1700s and 1800s. Corsets and crinolines were tossed out for more fluid, less restrictive clothes.
Handmade Rules
By the 1830s, bohemian style was thriving and it became linked to what was considered a counterculture movement of the time. It was becoming increasingly popular with artists and members of the middle class who appreciated art and who were able to influence cultural and social change. By the 1850s bohemian fashion became more accepted and even the aristocracy was beginning to acknowledge it. People had more money by then and they began wearing jewelry again, but often pieces handmade from unexpected materials.
The individualism of bohemian style was going strong by the end of the 1800s and early 1900s, and jewelry was in the mix. The jewelry was not your traditional diamond garland style that was prevalent at the time. Instead bohemians chose handmade pieces that emphasized design over materials and a move away from machination with nature a popular theme. It was also around this same time that the Art Nouveau movement, which embodied those concepts was born, a style which appealed to the bohemian sensibility.
Modern Bohemian Fashion
During the early part of the 20th century, bohemian style was not as prevalent as two world wars exploded, changing life priorities. But by the 1960s and 1970s bohemian fashion was back in full swing as part of the counterculture hippie movement and it has stayed stylish ever since.
The essence of bohemian style — individualism and free artistic expression —has become a mainstream fashion code defined by billowy blouses and long flowing skirts along with layers and stacks of jewelry. Lace, crochet, leather, suede, velvet and denim are all important elements in bohemian style as are floral, paisley and exotic prints in an earthy or muted color palette along with mismatched patterns, textures and layers. Fringe and tassels are playful adornments.
Jewelry for Bohemians
Today, bohemian fashion includes oodles of jewelry, especially in silver with a matte or blackened finish. Unexpected materials such as wood or leather in jewelry are favored. Turquoise, pearls and opal are also bohemian style approved. Stacking bangles on both wrists and layering multiple necklaces, along with oversized earrings, especially hoops all define bohemian style. Towards the end of the 1960s and into the early 1970s, rich hippie chic became the designer version of bohemian style. The style codes were the same, the clothes and jewelry were just more upscale. Yves St. Laurent in the 1970s was a major force behind that fashion moment.
Bohemian style calls for individualism and uniqueness. Vintage jewelry, which is often one-of-a-kind is particularly good for creating this look. The style is about mixing not matching, so perhaps start with a Victorian necklace that has a talismanic quality to it and then add chains and beads of varying lengths and different materials, or if you like to add a little glam, add in some diamonds by the yard. Add stacks of mismatched bangles on each arm and wear rings on as many fingers as you like. Finish the look with hoop earrings, they can be silver or gold for a casual vibe, or diamonds if you’re going for a more upscale look.
An artistic sensibility and a desire for self-expression have made bohemian style front and center once again. It’s a free-spirited sensibility that allows you to be creative and bring out your inner artist.
Top of page: Courtesy Pixabay
Diamond, ebony wood and 18-karat gold ring; Lapis lazuli bead, enamel and 14-karat gold necklace, signed Tracey Designs; 18-karat gold “Hawaii” necklace, 40 inches, with original box and certificate of authenticity, signed Buccellati; Diamond, sapphire and 18-karat gold stacking bangles, signed Boris Lebeau, circa 1980s; Diamond and 14-karat gold hoop earrings.
Authored by Amber Michelle