Obsessed with all things American, jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo headed to the U.S. at his first opportunity. It was a move well made as it put him on the map as a designer.
The eldest of five children, Cipullo was born in Naples, Italy in 1935, but grew up in Rome. Growing up, he worked in his father’s costume jewelry business. Once he was done with school, Cipullo went on to a jewelry apprenticeship. Enthralled with anything American Cipullo’s friends nicknamed him “Aldo Americano”. Finally in 1959, he made the move to the U.S., settling in New York City where he continued his education at the School of Visual Arts.
Cipullo Has Insomnia
Cipullo eventually landed at David Webb where he worked as a bench jeweler for three years, prior to joining Tiffany & Co. It was during his tenure at Tiffany & Co. that Cipullo came up with his idea for what is now one of the most recognized pieces of jewelry in the world — The Love Bracelet. The idea for the love bracelet came to Cipullo in 1969 after the end of a relationship. Insomina set in and Cipullo spent the nights awake thinking about his loss and wishing for a lasting love. One sleepless night resulted in the design for the Love Bracelet, which was highly innovative for the times.
Technically, the Love Bracelet is designed as two oval halves that fit neatly on the wrist. The bracelet is embellished with itty-bitty screws and a tiny screwdriver that is used to tighten the screws securing it to the wrist. It was meant to be given to couples so that each person could wear a bracelet messaging their commitment to each other. Since he was working at Tiffany & Co., Cipullo offered the design to the retailer, but it was turned down.
Cipullo at Cartier
Undaunted, Cipullo took his concept to Cartier. At the time Michael Thomas was Cartier’s president and he also happened to be a virtuoso at marketing. More importantly, he saw the potential in Cipullo’s design. In 1970 the Love Bracelet debuted at Cartier. The genderless design of the Love Bracelet is meant to be worn by anyone in love and is intended to stay on forever. It was It was commitment jewelry at a time when free love ruled and commitment was uncool, yet the design was so unique that it became a coveted symbol of modern love. When the bracelet launched Cartier allegedly gifted it to a number of high profile couples including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, which of course made it even more desirable.
Once he was settled into Cartier, Cipullo began creating other designs and his next big hit was another bracelet, Juste un Clou, French for Just a Nail, also known as the Nail Collection. Inspired by a book on Christianity that he was reading, the concept was simple — a nail bent to form a bracelet, ring or earrings. The Juste un Clou collection was introduced in 1971. With its Avant Garde style Juste un Cloue captured the industrial vibe and stark realities of the financial and social issues of New York City, that seemed to add fuel to the creatives in the City during that time. The Juste un Clou collection was relaunched in 2012 and its modernist, minimalist design appeals to today’s jewelry enthusiasts in much the same way that it did when it was first launched.
Modernizing Jewelry
With his playful designs, Cipullo wanted to make jewelry more modern and more wearable for contemporary life. Many of Cipullo’s collections were also filled with meaning. His Playing Card motif jewelry is the story of love as a game of chance and his backgammon inspired pieces have a timeless grace.
However, Cipullo wanted more and in 1974 he left Cartier to open his own design firm, Aldo Cipullo Ltd. In addition to jewelry, for his new business Cipullo also designed accessories and furniture. It was a good year for Cipullo, who went on to win the prestigious Coty American Fashion Critics Award for Jewelry.
Cipullo at the Smithsonian
The American Gem Society contacted Cipullo in 1978 with a project that brought his love of the United States and his design talent together. The organization asked Cipullo to create a collection of jewelry using gemstones mined in the U.S., including Arkansas diamonds, Montana sapphire and Arizona turquoise. The 31 piece American Gemstone Jewelry Collection toured the country and was then donated to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History.
Aldo Cipullo was known for his incredible talent, work hard and play hard lifestyle that was the essence of New York City at the time. Unfortunately, Cipullo’s bright energy was extinguished when he passed away from a double heart attack in 1984 at the age of 48. We’re all lucky that, Cipullo, the man who followed his dream to New York, left a lasting legacy of love that continues to enchant jewelry enthusiasts.
Top of page: Love Bracelet by Aldo Cipullo, photograph by Gary Bernstein, at the Museum of Modern Art, New York City. Signed Cartier 18-karat rose gold Love Bracelet, accompanied by the original signed Cartier screwdriver, inner and outer boxes and Cartier certificate of authenticity; Signed Cartier 18-karat gold and diamond Juste un Cloue ring; Mother of Pearl, onyx and 18-karat gold earrings signed Cartier and Aldo Cipullo, circa 1972; Lapis lazuli, diamond and 18-karat gold bracelet, signed Cartier and Aldo Cipullo, circa early 1970s.
Authored by Amber Michelle