Whether you already have a jewelry collection in progress, or you want to start a collection, there are a few foundational jewels that you may want as part of your assortment. Collectors collect for many different reasons, all of which will influence what you add to your collection. Some people collect rare jewels as part of an investment portfolio, others collect because they love history, or gemstones, or a particular designer, or era. There are many reasons to collect, all of which are personal and should be considered when adding to, or starting a jewelry collection. The Jewelers Circle has a few suggestions for jewels that you may want to add to an existing collection, or as starter pieces for a new collection.
A Stunning Diamond
Serious collectors may want to include a very high-quality diamond in a jewelry collection. A “D” color, flawless or internally flawless diamond is a great starting point, especially if the icy gem is a type IIa, which means that it has no nitrogen as part of its chemical composition. Most diamonds have some nitrogen as part of their make-up, so when nitrogen is not present, the gem receives a type IIa designation. The presence of nitrogen changes light flow in a diamond. When there is no nitrogen present the diamond will appear more transparent, brighter and whiter. Only about 2 percent of diamonds mined today are type IIa. Diamonds from the famed Golconda mines in India, were often type IIa. Those diamonds are known for their exceptional quality and “watery” appearance that results from an absence of nitrogen. Diamonds from the Golconda mine are exceedingly rare as the Golconda mines closed in the early 1900s, so many of these gems are in vintage or historic jewels. You may run into a “Golconda” diamond, but make sure it really is from the mine, as Golconda diamond is often used in modern marketing to describe these exceptionally beautiful type IIa diamonds, even though they come from another mine.
A Colored Diamond
When we think of diamonds the first thing that comes to mind is the pretty sparkly, transparent “white” diamond. But did you know that diamonds come in a kaleidoscope of colors? Diamonds can be found in pretty much every hue with red, pink, blue and green among the most rare shades, while yellow and brown are more accessible. You’ll find the occasional colored diamond in vintage jewelry, but for many years, with a few exceptions, these gems were considered oddities and were overlooked. It was in the mid 1990s when colored diamonds gained traction in the market as collectors took notice of the rarity and beauty of these gems, which made headlines for the jaw dropping prices they garnered at auction as their popularity exploded, becoming even more sought after in the early aughts. When looking for a colored diamond to purchase there is a lot to consider. Most colored diamonds have a secondary or modifying hue that gives each stone its own unique color and also impacts the price. You’ll also want to look at color saturation. A colored diamond should have a nice even color that is not too dark or too light.
An Important Colored Gemstone
The big three - emerald, ruby and sapphire are all collectible gemstones whose value is enhanced by their origins. An emerald from Colombia is the standard bearer for the verdant gem, desired for its lush bluish-green color and clarity. When it comes to rubies, those from Burma are considered to be among the best and rarest. These gems have a true red color and good clarity. The older gems that came from the Mogok mines are generally considered the finest rubies. The blue sapphires that hail from the Kashmir mines are counted as the best of this gemstone, in part because of their superb color and in part due to their velvety appearance caused by a particular type of inclusion known as silk, which reflects light and scatters it throughout the stone giving the gem a more vibrant color and a particular glow. It is important to note that all mines produce a wide variety of material in a range of quality, the collector gems will be those that have exceptional color and clarity.
A Natural Pearl
There was a time, a little over 100 years ago, when the only pearls available were formed naturally, when organic matter found its way into a mollusk which then proceeded to coat the irritant with nacre creating a pearl. Harvesting natural pearls was risky, supply was limited and pearls were at the time one of the most expensive and coveted jewels. All of that changed with the introduction of cultured pearls in the early 20th century, when human intervention helped mollusks produce pearls leading to an abundant supply of these gems. However, natural pearls remain a rarity, giving them a special place in the pantheon of collecting. Vintage jewelry pieces are filled with natural pearls, with their luminescence softly glowing in jewelry from the Victorian era and earlier.
A Signed Jewel
Up until the early 20th century, most jewelry was not signed. You’ll find a few pieces here and there, but it was not common practice for jewelry makers and design houses to sign their jewels. Today, signed vintage jewelry is among the most highly desired and hardest to come by. A signature from a top design firm is an indicator that a piece is made using impeccable gemstones, innovative design and skilled artisans. A signature also adds to the status of the jewel and to its price. You may want to add an historic piece to your collection that was created by one of the better known design firms such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, or Tiffany & Co., or you may opt for a piece from a highly collectible contemporary designer such as JAR. There are many options depending upon your collecting goals.
When you are considering purchasing jewelry at the highest levels for your collection, make sure that you are working with a trusted dealer and that the gemstone or jewelry is accompanied by a report from a credible gemological laboratory such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Don’t be rushed to make a purchase, consider it carefully. Examine the jewel thoroughly, review any paperwork involved and ask for a second opinion if you feel it is necessary. One last thought, once you’ve added a new piece to your collection, be sure to wear it and enjoy it.
Top of Page: Fancy purplish pink and fancy Light yellow-green pear shape diamonds mounted in 18-karat gold, accompanied by a GIA report.
Platinum ring, set with a D, Internally Flawless, 3.14-carat Type IIa diamond center stone, signed Graff, accompanied by a GIA report; Natural color 1.53-carat grayish-green diamond, pink diamond, white diamond and 18-karat gold ring, accompanied by a GIA report; Trombino ring features a 7.52-carat cushion cut Colombian emerald center, diamond and 18-karat gold, signed Bulgari, Italian, circa 1980s, accompanied by a Gübelin report and an American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) report; Art Deco round saltwater natural pearl, old mine diamond, platinum and 18-karat gold earrings, circa 1925 accompanied by a Gemmological Certification Services report; Art Nouveau moonstone, opal, plique-á-jour enamel, 18-karat gold and platinum pendant by Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., signed Tiffany & C, circa 1910.
Authored by Amber Michelle