When the French luxury goods company, LVMH, bought Tiffany & Co., in 2021, it refreshed a brand that has been at the forefront of American jewelry since 1837. That was the year that Charles Lewis Tiffany and his business partner, John P. Young, opened a stationery store in lower Manhattan specializing in luxury goods including some jewelry. At the time, the business partners had no idea that it would one day be the premiere American jewelry house. Originally named Tiffany & Young, the store was renamed Tiffany & Co. in 1853 when Charles Lewis Tiffany took over the business.
When it first opened, Tiffany & Young was a successful luxury emporium in the City. However, the company established itself as the premier American jewelry business in 1848 when Tiffany and Young travelled to Europe and bought a very large quantity of diamonds from the aristocracy and brought them back to New York. With this purchase the store had enough diamonds to supply the industrial barons and other wealthy Americans with a steady source of sparkling gems. It was the first time that Americans could easily purchase diamonds in the U.S. and the store became known as a diamond buying destination.
The Tiffany Diamond
Perhaps the best known diamond from the retailer is the Tiffany Diamond, that was cut from a 287.42 carat rough yellow diamond that came from the famed Kimberley Mine in South Africa. Discovered in 1877, Tiffany purchased the rock in Paris the following year. George Frederick Kunz, the company’s chief gemologist, was in charge of cutting the diamond. The gem was transformed into a 128.54-carat cushion-cut diamond with 82 facets and is known for its spectacular sparkle and depth of color. It has also been reset a number of times in different designs.
The Tiffany Diamond is currently on permanent display at the New York City Landmark store. In its entire 140-year plus history, the Tiffany Diamond has only been worn by four people: The socialite Mary Whitehouse, who wore the jewel to a Tiffany Ball in 1957. It was next worn in 1961 by Audrey Hepburn as part of the press tour for her role in the film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. It was another 58 years before it was worn again, this time by Lady Gaga when she donned the bauble for the 2019 Academy Awards. Then in 2021, Beyoncé was adorned with the sparkler in the “About Love” video.
Tiffany Setting
One of Tiffany & Co.’s most lasting designs was created to showcase diamonds at their sparkling best. The Tiffany Setting, introduced by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1886, is one of the most renowned and lasting designs from the firm. The diamond is set high and is held in place by six prongs allowing maximum light to flow through the stone to amplify its sparkle. At the time that it was introduced the Tiffany setting was very innovative and to this day, it remains one of the most popular settings for a diamond engagement ring.
Soon after the introduction of the Tiffany Setting, the firm once again made headlines when Charles Lewis Tiffany bought the French Crown Jewels and made them into Tiffany pieces. The headlines didn’t stop there, Tiffany & Co. won the grand prize for jewelry at the Paris Exposition in 1900, the first American company to be given that honor.
Louis Comfort Tiffany Becomes Design Director
After Charles Lewis Tiffany passed away in 1902, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, took over the firm. An artist in his heart and soul, Louis Comfort Tiffany became the company’s first design director, where he remained until his death in 1933. Passionate about nature, he was an influential designer and leader in the Art Nouveau movement. Louis Comfort Tiffany’s jewelry, lamps and glass windows are showcased in museums and can occasionally be found for purchase.
In 1979, John Loring was hired as design director and he shaped the design direction of the firm for the next 30 years. During those years several jewelry designers brought their talents to the company including Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso and architect Frank Gearhy.
Introducing Colored Gemstones
Through the years, Tiffany & Co. has introduced a few colored gemstones to the public. It started in 1903, when Tiffany & Co. brought the lovely pink stone kunzite to market. It was named after George Frederick Kunz, Tiffany & Co.’s staff gemologist. The firm’s next gemstone reveal was several years later, it introduced morganite, a peachy colored stone that is part of the beryl family. Kunz named the gem after the financier J.P. Morgan for his contributions to art and science and his donations to the American Museum of Natural History in New York City and the Museum of Natural History in Paris.
Tanzanite, a blue-violet gemstone found in the foothills of Mt. Kilamanjaro in Tanzania, was launched by Tiffany & Co. in 1968. Soon after, the retailer debuted tsavorite, a type of green garnet. The gem was named in honor of the Tsavo National Park on the border of Kenya and Tanzania where the stone was found.
The Landmark
Throughout its history, Tiffany & Co. has been a leader in design and innovation. And with its storied history and global name recognition, Tiffany & Co., remains one of the most successful and prestigious American jewelry houses today. On January 7, 2021, luxury product group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, completed its acquisition of Tiffany & Co. marking the beginning of a new chapter in the story of the venerable retailer. The firm has brought in a host of brand ambassadors including Kendall Jenner, Elle Fanning Tracee Ellis Ross, Anya Taylor-Joy, Eileen Gu, Beyonce, Jay-Z, Rosé and Lady Gaga to name a few. Under new management the art filled New York City Fifth Avenue and 57th Street flagship has been renovated and updated, with vignettes of vintage Tiffany & Co. events and jewelry shown side-by-side with new merchandise, honoring the past while still moving forward towards the future.
Featured image (top of page): Tiffany & Co. celebrates reopening of its New York City flagship store, The Landmark; Photo credit: Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com ©BFA 2024.
First: Orchid calla lily brooch, 18-karat gold, signed Tiffany & Co. Italy, circa 1950s; Second: Tiffany Diamond, photo Wiki Commons, Shipguy, https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ ; Third: Diamond and platinum Tiffany Setting engagement ring, signed Tiffany & Co.; Fourth: Large 18-karat gold “Bone” cuff by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.; Fifth: Tanzanite and 18-karat gold ring, signed Tiffany & Co., circa 1968; Sixth: Diamond, Burma ruby, 18-karat gold and platinum earrings by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Authored by Amber Michelle